Lago di Como

EXPLORING LOVELY LAKE COMO

Just one hour by car from Milan, for many Lake Como evokes images of glitz, glam and celebrities, James Bond, and the posh golden streets of the world famous Bellagio. However, there is a softer, more authentic quality to this lake and region. It’s natural beauty is unquestionable, but it is the people and tiny villages that dot the mountainsides and lake shores that make it truly magical. The following guide entails our tips for exploring lovely Lake Como and the surrounding area.

The southern tip of Lake Como is approximately one hour by car from the Milan Malpensa Airport, with Bellagio and Menaggio slightly further afield. Options for accessing the region include hiring a car, organizing a shuttle service, or taking a bus. We recommend spending at least three to four days here to fully experience the lake and relax. Lake Como is just one of several lakes in the Italian Lakes region, and while here we would also recommend day tripping to the nearby Lakes Lugano and Maggiore.

We have visited in previous summers and most recently in August during the Covid-19 pandemic. While it was it was fairly quiet during the pandemic, with mostly locals and Italian tourists, during the normal summer months certain villages around the lake are much busier with tourist traffic. We recommend visiting during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall for a more relaxed (and cheaper!) vacation.

EAT

Al Prato One of the top resturants in Varenna- make a reservation early!

Gelateria del Borgo A trip to Italy would not be complete without a little gelato. We loved this spot nestled within the charming streets of Bellagio. The shop offers several flavors from which to indulge!

Gelateria il Gabbiano Another gelato stop, this time on Menaggio’s promenade. Enjoy a glass of wine and scoop of gelato from their terrace overlooking the lake.

Hotel du Lac Bellagio Ristorante A casual, family-friendly eatery across from the ferry station in Bellagio. Try the seasonal risotto dish!

Hotel du Lac-Varenna Beautiful lakeside lunch in Varenna with refreshing drinks and local dishes.

Osteria II Governo 1801 An easy choice when in Lezzeno. Super charming with a cute patio, this restaurant offered delicious local food and friendly service.

Ristorante Silvio All the research we did recommended this family owned restaurant in Bellagio. We haven’t made it there yet but wanted to pass along the suggestion!

Il Ristorante Di Paolo Centrally located in the heart of Menaggio, this local dining experience pulls out all the stops. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner as well as the service- the staff were very welcoming and shared their favorite local dishes. The Tiramisu was incredible!

DRINK

Cafè del Pess In the heart of Menaggio’s waterfront and piazza, this cafe is the most happening spot in the village. Pop in for a morning espresso, a lunchtime pizza, a late afternoon aperitif or a bottle of wine after dinner.

Domasino wine Sorasso Lago di Como is a local winery on the northwestern shore of the lake producing dry white, rose and red wine under the Domasino label. We found many restaurants offering their wines and enjoyed trying them. It is possible to visit Sorasso for lunch or dinner and a wine tasting.

Enoteca Cava Turacciolo This small wine bar (cave) near the Bellagio port offers an incredible selection of local wines. Come for a tasting or a nightcap. We loved the selections of Barbaresco for reds and their Gavi di Gavi for whites. Make a booking as space is limited!

Enoteca Re Di Quadri Wine bar in the heart of Menaggio

Grand Hotel Tremezzo A favorite stop for an Aperitivo while taking in the stunning views from the Terrace.

Nilus Bar A cafe in Varenna with a terrace overlooking a small beach and the village’s multi-colored buildings. Stop in to refuel on espresso before climbing the cobblestoned streets to explore the village.

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni A highly rated 5 star stay in Bellagio only means they also offer fab views and delicious cocktails. While in Bellagio stop by for an Aperitif or stay for dinner. They also offer live music from their talented pianist!

PLAY

Rent a boat The best way to explore Lake Como is by water. It is possible to rent a small powered boat without a boating license with AC Boat in Menaggio. AC rents by hour or for a full day. Our favorite sites on the lake from the water included Nesso (a tiny village on the west bank with a beautiful waterfall emptying into the water), Isola Comacina (the only island in Lake Como, the side facing the east bank offers a quiet place to swim) and Villa del Balbianello (more below).

Lidos Looking to spend a low-key afternoon relaxing and swimming in the lake? There are many lidos - beach/pool clubs - that dot the lake’s shores. Most of the villages catering to tourists, including Bellagio and Menaggio, have their own lidos. An entry fee will usually get you access to a deck chair and umbrella, DJ-spun tunes, and drinks and food are available for purchase. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the Menaggio lido, which had the nicest area for swimming that we saw in the village.

Take a private cooking class Learn how to prepare fresh pasta from scratch from local chef, Frederica. Conduct the class in her own space or invite her to your apartment or Airbnb. The food was incredible! Frederica’s website is in Italian but she speaks English.

Varenna The most beautiful village on the lake (wethinks), Varenna’s colorful harbor should not be missed. Walk along the lakeside Walk of Lovers, explore the winding hillside of cobblestoned streets, and check out the lovely Villa Monastero. Varenna is easily accessible by ferry from Bellagio and Menaggio.

Villa del Balbianello Admire the 16th century architecture and beautiful gardens inside this estate. The villa can be reached by a lush forest trail from Lenno or admired by boat.

Villa Monastero The jewel of Varenna, this 12th century villa was a former nunnery. Today its sprawling grounds contain a gorgeous, lakeside villa (now a museum) with a large botanical garden. The garden cafe is a sweet stop from which to sip an espresso and admire the surroundings.

DAY TRIPS

Lake Maggiore Just 1.5 hours from Menaggio, pop across the border into Switzerland to visit the sparkling waters of the Valle Verzasca (a mountain spring that feeds the lake a few miles to the south), the Verzasca Dam (featured in James Bond, you can bungee jump here), and enjoy lunch in the lovely lakeside town of Ascona. We had an incredible, local Ticinese meal in the charming courtyard of Ristorante Grotto Broggini. Try the Merlot di Bianco wine (yes, it is a white Merlot made in Ticino).

Lake Lugano About an hour from Menaggio, the city of Lugano is located within the Ticino region of Switzerland and combines Mediterranean vibes, Italian charm and Swiss efficiency. Don’t miss the Villa Principe Leopoldo. Go for a drink, dinner, or stay there as your budget permits. This 5 star villa offers stunning views overlooking Lake Lugano and the city of Lugano.

STAY

There are three villages we would recommend from which to base yourself in Lake Como - Bellagio, Mennagio or Varenna. All are beautiful and charming and offer ferry access to the surrounding villages on the lake.

Bellagio The most famous village on the lake, Bellagio is the poshest and most popular with tourists. Its golden hued streets and buildings offer plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, and activities.

Como We historically have not stayed in Como directly for more than a day wile transiting to another village- for this, the Hilton is always a safe option. On our list but not yet stayed is the stunning Villa d'Este down the lake in Cernobbio

Menaggio A quiet, family-friendly village on the lake’s western shore, Menaggio has one of the main ferry ports, a pretty promenade and piazza, and a handful of good restaurants. We would recommend the Grand Hotel Menaggio or Bellavista Hotel, and also loved our stay at this two bedroom flat through HomeAway (it was right on the lake with incredible views). This location is also easier to get to by car from Switzerland, whereas to access Varenna and Bellagio you would need to take the ferry across.

Varenna Small yet beautiful, Varenna is our top pick for a romantic getaway.

Lenno The main attraction near Lenno is the Villa del Balbianello. This is a lesser known spot but offers a good variety of Airbnbs if you struggle to find something in the surrounding villages. While Lenno is a solid option, it is not our first choice compared to the three listed above. The village has tourist necessities and is still served by the mid-lake shuttle so it is easy enough to travel to nearby villages.

Tremezzo Splash out and stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which is literally as Grand as they come. This 5-star stay is only open for summer season from March through October. For a more more affordable option in the area, try Grand Hotel Cadenabbia or an Airbnb.

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Lake Como

Rome

Ciao Roma! All roads lead to this city layered with thousands of years of history, with sites stacked upon each other dating back to ancient times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and now modernity. While Rome is a well beaten path on the tourist trail, it’s large and cosmopolitan enough that the crowds are easily escaped. Come for the romantic, winding streets, gelato and incredible food and wine scene, and unbeatable shopping.

Rome has two airports, Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) which most major airlines use, and Ciampino Airport which is favored by European budget airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair. While Fiumicino is the farther, about 30 miles outside the city, it’s fairly easy to take the Leonardo Express train from the airport direct to Roma Termini station in central Rome. Alternatively, a cab will run a flat rate of around €50, no more. Without traffic the trip takes approximately 30 minutes.

If you are arriving in or departing Rome by train, Termini is the most popular station. Florence is an easy 90 minute direct train and tickets are €30 one-way. Buy online in advance via ItaliaRail.

Go during the off or shoulder seasons to avoid large tourist crowds and unbeatable heat during the summer months. We loved Roma in October!

EAT

Frigidarium This tiny gelateria serves each cup or cone in dipped, melted chocolate. Go late after dinner or past lunch time, as there is always a line!

Gelateria Della Palma This grand gelato shop is two blocks north of the Pantheon and boasts 150 different flavors. Pay at the till before ordering at the bar.

La Tavernaccia While this modern taverna is a bit out of the way and looks like an Italian restaurant straight out of a New Jersey strip mall (and sounds a bit like one - American tourists trek from all over Rome to come here), the food is really, really good, the wine list is excellent and its very affordable. Book in advance.

Pizzeria da Baffeto The best pizza in Rome, with a cracker thin crust. While it looks small on the outside, this two-story pizzeria is always bustling. Well worth the 10 minute wait for a table.

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina This famed deli, eatery and restaurant has a few “shops” all on the same street. We had lunch in the tiny Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria dining room (a square table that seats eight). The wine, bread, cheese and pasta were fantastic. Book in advance.

Supplizio While the humble Roman Suppli is not as well known as its Sicilian arancini ball cousin, it’s just as delicious. This casual eatery is dedicated to the suppli. Pop in for an aperitif and snack before dinner; the cacio e pepe Suppli is a must-try!

DRINK

Alembic Cute, eclectic spot in Trastevere that hosts a €10 “aperitivo buffet” in early evening. The art on the walls is available for purchase.

Caffè Camerino There are a few in the city, but this espresso bar just north of the Jewish Ghetto is perfect for a pit stop.

Il Goccetto A cozy wine bar in the historic center popping with locals in the evenings. Stop by for a glass, bottle or a night cap.

La Boutique del Limoncello A family-owned shop featuring homemade limoncello in a variety of flavors - strawberry, pistachio, banana and more.

Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà A tiny hole-in-the-wall dive bar in Trastevere with a friendly crowd.

Open Baladin This craft beer bar in the Jewish Quarter serves up a long list of burgers and pub grub for those who need a break from pizza and pasta.

PLAY

Ancient Rome Despite being a modern city, Rome’s ancient ruins are incredibly well preserved. Visit the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palatine all on the same pass. Hot tip: the Colosseum line is notoriously long. Purchase your Roman Forum and Colosseum pass at the Forum to beat the crowds later at the Colosseum. On your way to the ancient ruins, walk past the incredibly large Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland).

Castel Sant'Angelo Not as well known as the Ancient Rome ruins or Vatican City, make time for Rome’s very own castle.

Jewish Quarter Trendy part of the city with good shopping, cafes and restaurants.

Pantheon This former temple to the Roman Gods was converted into a church in the 7th century.

Piazza Navona Large, touristy plaza dating back to the first century.

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini’s Capuchin Crypt For those with a strong stomach, and who want to see something totally unique, for €8 you can visit the Bone Church of Rome. Beneath this church lies a crypt featuring an art installation constructed with the bones of thousands of skeletons.

Spanish Steps

Trastevere Referred to by the locals as the last-standing, truly authentic Roman neighborhood. This trendy locale is excellent for self guided walks, photography and people watching.

Trevi Fountain An epic work of sculpture, the Fountain is always filled with tourists but worth seeing. Go early! Make a wish and toss in a euro or two.

The Vatican and Saint Peter’s Square No visit to Rome is complete without a trip to the world’s smallest country. Book evening tickets to avoid the large crowds.

STAY

We love the Jewish Quarter and the neighborhood just next door, the area that stretches just west of it along the River Tiber up to the Museo di arte sacra San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. We stayed in this two bedroom AirBnb which was the perfect launch pad for walking to all of the sites.

For a more local experience, consider staying in the lovely Trastevere neighborhood. It will be a bit further from the main sites but an excellent place for dinner and going out in the evening.

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Rome

Positano

An escape that needs no introduction, Positano consistently tops our list of the most stunning coastal villages in Europe. It is no surprise that this trendy village is a highlight stop on any trip to the Italian Amalfi Coast. Come here to enjoy amazing food, wine, views, beaches, and beautiful weather. We visited over a long weekend but generally recommend at least three days. If you have time, combine this stop with a trip to Naples and Capri.

The best way to arrive in Positano is through Naples. Most cities within Europe will have have direct flights in and out of the southern Italian city. To get to the Amalfi coast, we highly recommend renting a car or hiring a private transfer. Most car rentals and shuttles depart from Napoli Centrale, the central train station in Naples, and it is very easy to take the Alibus directly from the airport to Centrale (have euro cash on hand). The drive from Naples Centrale to Positano takes roughly 90 minutes. We have had mixed experiences with transfer companies.

Note that the Amalfi Coast is packed with tourists from all over the world during the summer months. If you want to visit between June and August, book accommodation several months in advance. The shoulder seasons, including the months of April - May, and September, are lovely and quieter times to visit this region.

EAT

Buca di Bacco 1916 A cafe in the harbor with amazing ocean views. Excellent choice for dinner or for an afternoon cocktail.

Collina Bakery Take away coffee, traditional baked goods, and gelato. Yes, please!

Next2 Simple yet elegant delicious cocktails and amazing food. This was one of our favorite meals in Positano. Opt for a seat on the terrace for a romantic setting.

Ristorante Bruno High street views overlooking the beautiful village of Positano. A more casual option with moderately priced dishes.

Ristorante La Sponda Recommended by a friend.

DRINK

Amalfi Coast is also well-known for the famous Amalfi lemons which are literally the size of grapefruits, maybe bigger. Be sure to try the local Limoncello as an after-dinner digestif.

Champagne Bar at Le Sirenuse Classy stop for pre-dinner drinks, great views over the village and sea.

Music on the Rocks Looking for an authentic disco and night club experience? The club offers excellent views and vibes with a mixed crowd of locals and tourists. Music can be hit or miss depending on the night but overall offers some nightlife in the village.

PLAY

The Amalfi Coast is best explored by boat. We highly recommend taking at least a day trip, if not longer, to explore the surrounding coastal villages and islands. Do not miss Capri and Amalfi during your stay! Capri is a small, chic island off the coast of southern Italy, and offers some of the best beaches and shopping. Capri can be reached by ferry from Positano (about 40 minutes). You can check out the ferry schedule is here.

Marina Grande Beach Relax and enjoy the sun at the main beach in Positano. Go early to get a lounger. They typically run about 10€.

Positano Boats We chose the Emerald Grotto & Amalfi Coast tour. We skipped the grotto and instead lounged on the boat. We definitely recommend exploring the village of Amalfi. Although touristy, we enjoyed checking out the local shops, wine bars, and gelato stands for a break from the sun.

Positano Village It is definitely worth an afternoon or a morning to enjoy the colorful village itself. Wander around the winding streets, enjoying the small boutiques and local Italian shops. Bring your camera as the views at every turn are picture-worthy. This village is a photographers dream!

Ralla Antonio Custom sandals in Positano! Although small, the shop offers a wide variety of styles and colors. The owners are friendly and the process of custom fitting is fairly quick.

STAY

We traveled with a group of friends so we stayed in an AirBnb on the hill close to Next2. Definitely book in advance to secure a spot within the village itself. While small and walkable, walking around Positano is not for those who have difficulties managing steps. There are incredibly steep stairs the higher up you stay in the village. If you are renting a car, also be sure to inquire about parking at your accommodation.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Positano

Naples

Basking in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, Naples is a quintessentially southern Italian city. It’s grittier, livelier and certainly rougher than its more refined, northern cousins. While here do not miss trying a classic, Neapolitan pizza.

After landing into the Naples Airport, take the airport bus to Napoli Centrale, the main train station.

Naples is a gateway to the beautiful Amalfi Coast, the towns of Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento and the lovely isle of Capri. All within a few hours drive. Hire a private driver.

EAT

Gino e Toto Sorbillo The BEST pizza in Naples. There is another restaurant called Sorbillo, so make to go to this one. Order a pizza a person.

DRINK

Piazza Bellini Lots of bars line this street.

Via dei Tribunali The bustling, albeit narrow, main street that runs through the city center and comes alive at night.

PLAY

Chiaia The area just south and southeast of the Stazione Napoli Piazza Amedeo. It is filled with cute boutiques and restaurants.

Lungomare Stunning views of Mount Vesuvius, Capri and the city itself from this promenade running alongside the coast. Also a great place to sunbathe. Stay for sunset.

Pompeii Archaeological Park Spend a day touring the remains of this ancient city preserved in volcanic ash. Pompeii was destroyed in 79 AD by a devastating eruption from Mount Vesuvius. It is an easy, 40 minute train ride from Naples.

Vesuvius National Park Hike up to the crater of Mount Vesuvius. It is possible to take a bus or taxi to the volcano from Pompeii.

STAY

We enjoyed staying just south of the Museo subway station, the old tower quarter, which was a 15 minute walk from the Napoli Centrale. To get the full experience, go for an AirBnb in a local home.

Naples

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