Paris

The City of Lights and Love is truly special. There is so much to do, see, and taste in Paris and often too little time, making it easy to feel overwhelmed when planning. Besides the major sites, our favorite way to enjoy the French capital is just walking around the different neighborhoods, stopping in a café to just enjoy the moment.

Charles de Gaulle and Paris Orly are the two nearest international airports. Orly is smaller and offers the Orlybus shuttle from the airport to Paris Denfert-Rochereau Station in the city center. The bus costs about €8, takes roughly 30 minutes, and departs every 15-20 minutes. It is also possible to take a bus from de Gaulle into the city but may take longer due to traffic. Uber is also in the city and an efficient option.

If you are coming from London, take the Eurostar from St. Pancras Station direct to Paris Gare du Nord. The trip takes about 2.5 hours total.

While Paris is magical any time of year, we love it best in spring and fall. The weather is milder and the tourists that descend upon the city in summer have long gone home. Try visiting during the first weekend of October, when Parisians celebrate Nuit Blanche. “White Night” is an all-night festival when museums, art galleries and other cultural institutions are free and open all night. The city also celebrates special installations and performances which are hosted in public spaces throughout the city.

While in France attempt to speak French! Parisians are friendly but even friendlier if you dust off your rusty high school French.

EAT

Brasserie Bellanger- Cozy and inviting traditional French Brasserie in the 10th Arr.

Café de Flore A Paris staple. Head here for brunch- one of the best french onion soups in town!

Chez Alain MIam Miam - Hearty sandwiches and crepes in the 2nd Arr. Go during the weekday to beat the crowds.

Derriere A fun and funky spot for dinner. Good for groups.

Ellsworth Casual spot where the Parisians take on some American classics

Restuarant Girafe Paris - trendy and upscale restaurant in the 16th. Go for the views and the vibe.

Le Comptoir du Relais A well-known bistro in St. Germain.

La Jacobine A tiny, adorable and affordable restaurant in St. Germain. Make a reservation for dinner.

Le Marais Boulangeries (bakeries) Wander around the neighborhood and treat yourself to the local specialities: croissant, pain au chocolate, baguette tradition, and chausson aux pomme.

La Petite Perigourdine Quintessential French restaurant in the Latin Quarter. Try the steak and aligot, a smooth, buttery potato side.

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte No menu, only Steak and Fries- a trademark spot in Paris. The food is simple but done to perfection. No reservations so we recommend to go early!

Saint Pearl Tasty brunch option in Saint Germain-des-Prés. Try the dirty chai and pancakes. Its a small spot so you to need be patient with the service!

Will`s Deli Not your traditional French lunch but great for a quick lunch. The Reuben is one of the best we have found in Europe!

DRINK

Bar du Marché This St. Germain bar is open late and a great stop for a night cap.

Candelaria Not far from Le Marais, this taqueria features a hidden, speakeasy in the back. Good for cocktails.

Chez Jeannette Hip bar between the 3rd and 10th arrondissements with a PYT crowd.

Gramme Paris - Cute coffee shop & restaurant in le Marais

Le Perchoir Marais Chic neighborhood rooftop bar

Les deux Maggots Hemingway is rumored to have frequented this old world, St. Germain cafe. Stop here for a coffee or beer and watch the world go by.

Le Syndicat An amazing cocktail bar in the 10th.

Lockwood Relaxed and understated cocktails in the 2nd.

OChateau Wine + Cheese tasting lunch Lunch and learn!

Prescription Cocktail Club Posh cocktail lounge in St. Germain. Recommended by friends.

PLAY

Centre Pompidou- This is home to the largest modern art collection in Europe and is home to a large public library. Pompidou is also known to host many traveling exhibits so be sure to check out whats on during your next visit!

Eiffel Tour Paris’ most beloved icon. Sit on the lawn and admire the view with a picnic.

Jardin du Luxembourg A lush sanctuary in the heart of the 6th arrondissement.

L'Arc de Triomphe Stop to admire this monument built to honor Napoleon before strolling down the posh Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

Le Marais One of Paris’ coolest neighborhoods, go for the delicious French pastries, medieval cobble-stoned alleys and trendy boutiques. We especially love Blue Lemon Paris, Merci and Sézane.

Louvre Home to da Vinci’s timeless Mona Lisa, plan to spend at least a half day at the world’s most famous museum. While here, check out the nearby Tuileries Gardens. Bring some cheese, wine, baguettes, and enjoy the views.

Montmartre This village-esque art enclave on a hill is one of our favorite neighborhoods in Paris. Stop by the Sunday Brocante des Abbesses market, admire the Sacre Coeur church, observe the street artists and musicians, and look out across the gorgeous city view. The Moulin Rouge is also nearby.

Musée d'Orsay Internationally recognized for its Impressionist art, including works by Monet, Manet, Degas, Cézanne and more. The museum is closed on Mondays.

Notre Dame Cathedral A must see. Truly beautiful architecure inside and it. Aside from your day visit, we recommend an evening walk along the river to photograph the illuminated cathedral.

Saint Germain and the Latin Quarter The 5th and 6th arrondissements are traversed by the ghosts of literary and artistic legends who flocked here in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today these bohemian, student neighborhoods are excellent for a mosey around. Be sure to check out Le Bon Marché (the oldest department store in Paris) for a little shopping!

Seine river cruise A bit touristy but offers amazing views of the city from a different vantage point. Go at sunset.

Day Trips

No trip to France is complete without a visit to the Champagne region. Home to Moet, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Perignon, this region is a must see. Rent a car for a self-guided trip or book a tour through Ô Chateau.

Palace of Versailles The opulent, former seat of the French monarchy is an easy day trip from the center of Paris. About an hour by train, go in the morning to tour the chateau before spending an hour or two in the gardens. For a little insider tip, rent a golf cart to explore the full extent of the gardens. Buy tickets online in advance.

STAY

Our favorite neighborhoods to stay in are Le Marais (3rd arrondissement), the Latin Quarter (5th) and Saint Germain (6th). Airbnbs are generally the best value for money. We enjoyed our stay at Bonsoir Madame, this four star boutique hotel is perfect for a short stay! Great location, cute (but small!) rooms and lovely staff. Friends have also recommended the four star Hôtel Atmosphères near the Sorbonne in the 6th arrondissement.

Paris

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Istanbul

Istanbul straddles both Europe and Asia and for centuries has been a physical bridge between the Orient and West. The former capital of the Roman and Byzantine Empires, Istanbul was known throughout the ancient world as Constantinople. With its views of the Bosphorus Straight and Sea of Marmara, orange tiled rooftops, and Islamic minarets, it is a stunning city. Visit for the delicious Mediterranean food, shopping in the Grand Bazaar, and gorgeous architectural antiquities including the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.

Istanbul is a delight to visit in warm weather. Go anytime spring through early summer or in the autumn. To see all the sights and fully enjoy the city, we recommend at least three days.

Be sure to check Visa requirements before visiting Turkey. Online visas can be applied for here.

From the airport, take the M1A Yenikapı - Atatürk Airport subway line to the city center. Alternatively, cabs are an option but heavy traffic can make the journey take twice as long. We would only recommend this if you arrive early morning or late in the evening.

EAT

Antiochia Hip, brick-walled restaurant in Beyoğlu with amazing food. Great spot for dinner.

Cemil Dulda'nın Yeri Mardin Meat and kebab hall next to the Grand Baazar. Try the Iskander kebab and eggplant kofte.

Dürümzade Made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain- this is a great option for a quick Kebab lunch.

Hocapasa Pidecisi Humble little lunch spot in Hocapasa serving up excellent pide (Turkish pizza). It is very near the Gülhane Parkı Çeşmesi park.

Hünkar Turkish and Ottoman food in the Nisantasi neighborhood.

Restaunt Mürver Beautiful view overlooking the Bosphorus from the top of the Novotel in Karaköy.

Tarihi Karadeniz Döner Kebab sandwiches in the Besiktas neighborhood. Great option for lunch on the go.

DRINK

Be sure to try the local tea, called çay, and Turkish coffee.

Anadolu Nargile Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi This 300 year old, former Islamic school is now a hidden shisha bar near the Grand Bazaar. This spot has an authentic, local vibe, though as with most shisha bars in Islamic countries, it does not serve alcohol.

Istiklal Caddesi There are lots of great places for drinks in the narrow streets that flow from Istiklal Caddesi, a main street near Beyoğlu and Taksim Square. Nevizade Sokak is a particularly good side street.

Mikla Trendy roof-top bar (and restaurant) in Beyoğlu. Go for cocktails and watch the sun set over the Bosphorus.

Roof Mezze 360 The name gives it away but this spot offers local Turkish dishes and drinks with amazing views across the city.

PLAY

For visits to the mosques and other monuments, we recommend buying tickets in advance. The lines are a cluster and often warrant long wait times.

Dolmabahce This is the former palace and place of death of Atatürk, the Turk hero who brought down the Ottoman Empire.

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower) Medieval tower in Karaköy quarter of the city. Historically, this was the city watchtower and now welcomes visitors to see a 360 view over Istanbul at the top of the tower.

Galataport Cruise port in the heart of Istanbul at the waterfront neighborhood of Karaköy. This new development offers restaurants, shopping, culture, and offers a beautiful promenade over the Bosphorus.

Hagia Sophia This must see Orthodox church was converted into a mosque by Muslims. After you have toured the interior, grab a Turkish coffee on the terrace of nearby restaurant Seven Hills for the best views.

Kapali Carsi Grand Bazaar. Some of our favorite shops include:

Koç In need of a leather Jacket? They have two shops, one in front of the other, but try the smaller shop. The seller speaks good English.

Recep Karaduman Beautiful Turkish Carpets, worth the visit even if you are not looking to buy.

Kiz Kulesi (Maiden's Tower) Go by ferry and enjoy the beautiful views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus from the top of the tower.

Sultanahmet Known as the Blue Mosque, this active place of worship is famous for its blue tiled interior and architecture. It is a 10 minute walk from the Hagia Sophia. Free entry.

Taksim Square The heart of the trendy Beyoğlu neighborhood, this is a hot spot for cafes, bars and people watching.

Topkapi Palace This old Ottoman palace overlooking the city which was the center of Istanbul.

Turkish Baths There are many. Don’t miss trying one!

STAY

Sultanahmet is a neighborhood close to most of the major sites but does not offer many restaurant options. We enjoyed Hotel Niles Istanbul, a tiny, boutique hotel with a lovely roof terrace that is a few blocks from the Grand Bazaar.

Otherwise, check out Beyoğlu, Beşiktaş or Nişantaşi neighborhoods. Beyoğlu is known for its proximity to bars, restaurants and shopping.

Istanbul

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Lago di Como

EXPLORING LOVELY LAKE COMO

Just one hour by car from Milan, for many Lake Como evokes images of glitz, glam and celebrities, James Bond, and the posh golden streets of the world famous Bellagio. However, there is a softer, more authentic quality to this lake and region. It’s natural beauty is unquestionable, but it is the people and tiny villages that dot the mountainsides and lake shores that make it truly magical. The following guide entails our tips for exploring lovely Lake Como and the surrounding area.

The southern tip of Lake Como is approximately one hour by car from the Milan Malpensa Airport, with Bellagio and Menaggio slightly further afield. Options for accessing the region include hiring a car, organizing a shuttle service, or taking a bus. We recommend spending at least three to four days here to fully experience the lake and relax. Lake Como is just one of several lakes in the Italian Lakes region, and while here we would also recommend day tripping to the nearby Lakes Lugano and Maggiore.

We have visited in previous summers and most recently in August during the Covid-19 pandemic. While it was it was fairly quiet during the pandemic, with mostly locals and Italian tourists, during the normal summer months certain villages around the lake are much busier with tourist traffic. We recommend visiting during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall for a more relaxed (and cheaper!) vacation.

EAT

Al Prato One of the top resturants in Varenna- make a reservation early!

Gelateria del Borgo A trip to Italy would not be complete without a little gelato. We loved this spot nestled within the charming streets of Bellagio. The shop offers several flavors from which to indulge!

Gelateria il Gabbiano Another gelato stop, this time on Menaggio’s promenade. Enjoy a glass of wine and scoop of gelato from their terrace overlooking the lake.

Hotel du Lac Bellagio Ristorante A casual, family-friendly eatery across from the ferry station in Bellagio. Try the seasonal risotto dish!

Hotel du Lac-Varenna Beautiful lakeside lunch in Varenna with refreshing drinks and local dishes.

Osteria II Governo 1801 An easy choice when in Lezzeno. Super charming with a cute patio, this restaurant offered delicious local food and friendly service.

Ristorante Silvio All the research we did recommended this family owned restaurant in Bellagio. We haven’t made it there yet but wanted to pass along the suggestion!

Il Ristorante Di Paolo Centrally located in the heart of Menaggio, this local dining experience pulls out all the stops. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner as well as the service- the staff were very welcoming and shared their favorite local dishes. The Tiramisu was incredible!

DRINK

Cafè del Pess In the heart of Menaggio’s waterfront and piazza, this cafe is the most happening spot in the village. Pop in for a morning espresso, a lunchtime pizza, a late afternoon aperitif or a bottle of wine after dinner.

Domasino wine Sorasso Lago di Como is a local winery on the northwestern shore of the lake producing dry white, rose and red wine under the Domasino label. We found many restaurants offering their wines and enjoyed trying them. It is possible to visit Sorasso for lunch or dinner and a wine tasting.

Enoteca Cava Turacciolo This small wine bar (cave) near the Bellagio port offers an incredible selection of local wines. Come for a tasting or a nightcap. We loved the selections of Barbaresco for reds and their Gavi di Gavi for whites. Make a booking as space is limited!

Enoteca Re Di Quadri Wine bar in the heart of Menaggio

Grand Hotel Tremezzo A favorite stop for an Aperitivo while taking in the stunning views from the Terrace.

Nilus Bar A cafe in Varenna with a terrace overlooking a small beach and the village’s multi-colored buildings. Stop in to refuel on espresso before climbing the cobblestoned streets to explore the village.

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni A highly rated 5 star stay in Bellagio only means they also offer fab views and delicious cocktails. While in Bellagio stop by for an Aperitif or stay for dinner. They also offer live music from their talented pianist!

PLAY

Rent a boat The best way to explore Lake Como is by water. It is possible to rent a small powered boat without a boating license with AC Boat in Menaggio. AC rents by hour or for a full day. Our favorite sites on the lake from the water included Nesso (a tiny village on the west bank with a beautiful waterfall emptying into the water), Isola Comacina (the only island in Lake Como, the side facing the east bank offers a quiet place to swim) and Villa del Balbianello (more below).

Lidos Looking to spend a low-key afternoon relaxing and swimming in the lake? There are many lidos - beach/pool clubs - that dot the lake’s shores. Most of the villages catering to tourists, including Bellagio and Menaggio, have their own lidos. An entry fee will usually get you access to a deck chair and umbrella, DJ-spun tunes, and drinks and food are available for purchase. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the Menaggio lido, which had the nicest area for swimming that we saw in the village.

Take a private cooking class Learn how to prepare fresh pasta from scratch from local chef, Frederica. Conduct the class in her own space or invite her to your apartment or Airbnb. The food was incredible! Frederica’s website is in Italian but she speaks English.

Varenna The most beautiful village on the lake (wethinks), Varenna’s colorful harbor should not be missed. Walk along the lakeside Walk of Lovers, explore the winding hillside of cobblestoned streets, and check out the lovely Villa Monastero. Varenna is easily accessible by ferry from Bellagio and Menaggio.

Villa del Balbianello Admire the 16th century architecture and beautiful gardens inside this estate. The villa can be reached by a lush forest trail from Lenno or admired by boat.

Villa Monastero The jewel of Varenna, this 12th century villa was a former nunnery. Today its sprawling grounds contain a gorgeous, lakeside villa (now a museum) with a large botanical garden. The garden cafe is a sweet stop from which to sip an espresso and admire the surroundings.

DAY TRIPS

Lake Maggiore Just 1.5 hours from Menaggio, pop across the border into Switzerland to visit the sparkling waters of the Valle Verzasca (a mountain spring that feeds the lake a few miles to the south), the Verzasca Dam (featured in James Bond, you can bungee jump here), and enjoy lunch in the lovely lakeside town of Ascona. We had an incredible, local Ticinese meal in the charming courtyard of Ristorante Grotto Broggini. Try the Merlot di Bianco wine (yes, it is a white Merlot made in Ticino).

Lake Lugano About an hour from Menaggio, the city of Lugano is located within the Ticino region of Switzerland and combines Mediterranean vibes, Italian charm and Swiss efficiency. Don’t miss the Villa Principe Leopoldo. Go for a drink, dinner, or stay there as your budget permits. This 5 star villa offers stunning views overlooking Lake Lugano and the city of Lugano.

STAY

There are three villages we would recommend from which to base yourself in Lake Como - Bellagio, Mennagio or Varenna. All are beautiful and charming and offer ferry access to the surrounding villages on the lake.

Bellagio The most famous village on the lake, Bellagio is the poshest and most popular with tourists. Its golden hued streets and buildings offer plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, and activities.

Como We historically have not stayed in Como directly for more than a day wile transiting to another village- for this, the Hilton is always a safe option. On our list but not yet stayed is the stunning Villa d'Este down the lake in Cernobbio

Menaggio A quiet, family-friendly village on the lake’s western shore, Menaggio has one of the main ferry ports, a pretty promenade and piazza, and a handful of good restaurants. We would recommend the Grand Hotel Menaggio or Bellavista Hotel, and also loved our stay at this two bedroom flat through HomeAway (it was right on the lake with incredible views). This location is also easier to get to by car from Switzerland, whereas to access Varenna and Bellagio you would need to take the ferry across.

Varenna Small yet beautiful, Varenna is our top pick for a romantic getaway.

Lenno The main attraction near Lenno is the Villa del Balbianello. This is a lesser known spot but offers a good variety of Airbnbs if you struggle to find something in the surrounding villages. While Lenno is a solid option, it is not our first choice compared to the three listed above. The village has tourist necessities and is still served by the mid-lake shuttle so it is easy enough to travel to nearby villages.

Tremezzo Splash out and stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which is literally as Grand as they come. This 5-star stay is only open for summer season from March through October. For a more more affordable option in the area, try Grand Hotel Cadenabbia or an Airbnb.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Lake Como

Rome

Ciao Roma! All roads lead to this city layered with thousands of years of history, with sites stacked upon each other dating back to ancient times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and now modernity. While Rome is a well beaten path on the tourist trail, it’s large and cosmopolitan enough that the crowds are easily escaped. Come for the romantic, winding streets, gelato and incredible food and wine scene, and unbeatable shopping.

Rome has two airports, Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) which most major airlines use, and Ciampino Airport which is favored by European budget airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair. While Fiumicino is the farther, about 30 miles outside the city, it’s fairly easy to take the Leonardo Express train from the airport direct to Roma Termini station in central Rome. Alternatively, a cab will run a flat rate of around €50, no more. Without traffic the trip takes approximately 30 minutes.

If you are arriving in or departing Rome by train, Termini is the most popular station. Florence is an easy 90 minute direct train and tickets are €30 one-way. Buy online in advance via ItaliaRail.

Go during the off or shoulder seasons to avoid large tourist crowds and unbeatable heat during the summer months. We loved Roma in October!

EAT

Frigidarium This tiny gelateria serves each cup or cone in dipped, melted chocolate. Go late after dinner or past lunch time, as there is always a line!

Gelateria Della Palma This grand gelato shop is two blocks north of the Pantheon and boasts 150 different flavors. Pay at the till before ordering at the bar.

La Tavernaccia While this modern taverna is a bit out of the way and looks like an Italian restaurant straight out of a New Jersey strip mall (and sounds a bit like one - American tourists trek from all over Rome to come here), the food is really, really good, the wine list is excellent and its very affordable. Book in advance.

Pizzeria da Baffeto The best pizza in Rome, with a cracker thin crust. While it looks small on the outside, this two-story pizzeria is always bustling. Well worth the 10 minute wait for a table.

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina This famed deli, eatery and restaurant has a few “shops” all on the same street. We had lunch in the tiny Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria dining room (a square table that seats eight). The wine, bread, cheese and pasta were fantastic. Book in advance.

Supplizio While the humble Roman Suppli is not as well known as its Sicilian arancini ball cousin, it’s just as delicious. This casual eatery is dedicated to the suppli. Pop in for an aperitif and snack before dinner; the cacio e pepe Suppli is a must-try!

DRINK

Alembic Cute, eclectic spot in Trastevere that hosts a €10 “aperitivo buffet” in early evening. The art on the walls is available for purchase.

Caffè Camerino There are a few in the city, but this espresso bar just north of the Jewish Ghetto is perfect for a pit stop.

Il Goccetto A cozy wine bar in the historic center popping with locals in the evenings. Stop by for a glass, bottle or a night cap.

La Boutique del Limoncello A family-owned shop featuring homemade limoncello in a variety of flavors - strawberry, pistachio, banana and more.

Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà A tiny hole-in-the-wall dive bar in Trastevere with a friendly crowd.

Open Baladin This craft beer bar in the Jewish Quarter serves up a long list of burgers and pub grub for those who need a break from pizza and pasta.

PLAY

Ancient Rome Despite being a modern city, Rome’s ancient ruins are incredibly well preserved. Visit the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palatine all on the same pass. Hot tip: the Colosseum line is notoriously long. Purchase your Roman Forum and Colosseum pass at the Forum to beat the crowds later at the Colosseum. On your way to the ancient ruins, walk past the incredibly large Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland).

Castel Sant'Angelo Not as well known as the Ancient Rome ruins or Vatican City, make time for Rome’s very own castle.

Jewish Quarter Trendy part of the city with good shopping, cafes and restaurants.

Pantheon This former temple to the Roman Gods was converted into a church in the 7th century.

Piazza Navona Large, touristy plaza dating back to the first century.

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini’s Capuchin Crypt For those with a strong stomach, and who want to see something totally unique, for €8 you can visit the Bone Church of Rome. Beneath this church lies a crypt featuring an art installation constructed with the bones of thousands of skeletons.

Spanish Steps

Trastevere Referred to by the locals as the last-standing, truly authentic Roman neighborhood. This trendy locale is excellent for self guided walks, photography and people watching.

Trevi Fountain An epic work of sculpture, the Fountain is always filled with tourists but worth seeing. Go early! Make a wish and toss in a euro or two.

The Vatican and Saint Peter’s Square No visit to Rome is complete without a trip to the world’s smallest country. Book evening tickets to avoid the large crowds.

STAY

We love the Jewish Quarter and the neighborhood just next door, the area that stretches just west of it along the River Tiber up to the Museo di arte sacra San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. We stayed in this two bedroom AirBnb which was the perfect launch pad for walking to all of the sites.

For a more local experience, consider staying in the lovely Trastevere neighborhood. It will be a bit further from the main sites but an excellent place for dinner and going out in the evening.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Rome