Lago di Como

EXPLORING LOVELY LAKE COMO

Just one hour by car from Milan, for many Lake Como evokes images of glitz, glam and celebrities, James Bond, and the posh golden streets of the world famous Bellagio. However, there is a softer, more authentic quality to this lake and region. It’s natural beauty is unquestionable, but it is the people and tiny villages that dot the mountainsides and lake shores that make it truly magical. The following guide entails our tips for exploring lovely Lake Como and the surrounding area.

The southern tip of Lake Como is approximately one hour by car from the Milan Malpensa Airport, with Bellagio and Menaggio slightly further afield. Options for accessing the region include hiring a car, organizing a shuttle service, or taking a bus. We recommend spending at least three to four days here to fully experience the lake and relax. Lake Como is just one of several lakes in the Italian Lakes region, and while here we would also recommend day tripping to the nearby Lakes Lugano and Maggiore.

We have visited in previous summers and most recently in August during the Covid-19 pandemic. While it was it was fairly quiet during the pandemic, with mostly locals and Italian tourists, during the normal summer months certain villages around the lake are much busier with tourist traffic. We recommend visiting during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall for a more relaxed (and cheaper!) vacation.

EAT

Al Prato One of the top resturants in Varenna- make a reservation early!

Gelateria del Borgo A trip to Italy would not be complete without a little gelato. We loved this spot nestled within the charming streets of Bellagio. The shop offers several flavors from which to indulge!

Gelateria il Gabbiano Another gelato stop, this time on Menaggio’s promenade. Enjoy a glass of wine and scoop of gelato from their terrace overlooking the lake.

Hotel du Lac Bellagio Ristorante A casual, family-friendly eatery across from the ferry station in Bellagio. Try the seasonal risotto dish!

Hotel du Lac-Varenna Beautiful lakeside lunch in Varenna with refreshing drinks and local dishes.

Osteria II Governo 1801 An easy choice when in Lezzeno. Super charming with a cute patio, this restaurant offered delicious local food and friendly service.

Ristorante Silvio All the research we did recommended this family owned restaurant in Bellagio. We haven’t made it there yet but wanted to pass along the suggestion!

Il Ristorante Di Paolo Centrally located in the heart of Menaggio, this local dining experience pulls out all the stops. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner as well as the service- the staff were very welcoming and shared their favorite local dishes. The Tiramisu was incredible!

DRINK

Cafè del Pess In the heart of Menaggio’s waterfront and piazza, this cafe is the most happening spot in the village. Pop in for a morning espresso, a lunchtime pizza, a late afternoon aperitif or a bottle of wine after dinner.

Domasino wine Sorasso Lago di Como is a local winery on the northwestern shore of the lake producing dry white, rose and red wine under the Domasino label. We found many restaurants offering their wines and enjoyed trying them. It is possible to visit Sorasso for lunch or dinner and a wine tasting.

Enoteca Cava Turacciolo This small wine bar (cave) near the Bellagio port offers an incredible selection of local wines. Come for a tasting or a nightcap. We loved the selections of Barbaresco for reds and their Gavi di Gavi for whites. Make a booking as space is limited!

Enoteca Re Di Quadri Wine bar in the heart of Menaggio

Grand Hotel Tremezzo A favorite stop for an Aperitivo while taking in the stunning views from the Terrace.

Nilus Bar A cafe in Varenna with a terrace overlooking a small beach and the village’s multi-colored buildings. Stop in to refuel on espresso before climbing the cobblestoned streets to explore the village.

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni A highly rated 5 star stay in Bellagio only means they also offer fab views and delicious cocktails. While in Bellagio stop by for an Aperitif or stay for dinner. They also offer live music from their talented pianist!

PLAY

Rent a boat The best way to explore Lake Como is by water. It is possible to rent a small powered boat without a boating license with AC Boat in Menaggio. AC rents by hour or for a full day. Our favorite sites on the lake from the water included Nesso (a tiny village on the west bank with a beautiful waterfall emptying into the water), Isola Comacina (the only island in Lake Como, the side facing the east bank offers a quiet place to swim) and Villa del Balbianello (more below).

Lidos Looking to spend a low-key afternoon relaxing and swimming in the lake? There are many lidos - beach/pool clubs - that dot the lake’s shores. Most of the villages catering to tourists, including Bellagio and Menaggio, have their own lidos. An entry fee will usually get you access to a deck chair and umbrella, DJ-spun tunes, and drinks and food are available for purchase. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the Menaggio lido, which had the nicest area for swimming that we saw in the village.

Take a private cooking class Learn how to prepare fresh pasta from scratch from local chef, Frederica. Conduct the class in her own space or invite her to your apartment or Airbnb. The food was incredible! Frederica’s website is in Italian but she speaks English.

Varenna The most beautiful village on the lake (wethinks), Varenna’s colorful harbor should not be missed. Walk along the lakeside Walk of Lovers, explore the winding hillside of cobblestoned streets, and check out the lovely Villa Monastero. Varenna is easily accessible by ferry from Bellagio and Menaggio.

Villa del Balbianello Admire the 16th century architecture and beautiful gardens inside this estate. The villa can be reached by a lush forest trail from Lenno or admired by boat.

Villa Monastero The jewel of Varenna, this 12th century villa was a former nunnery. Today its sprawling grounds contain a gorgeous, lakeside villa (now a museum) with a large botanical garden. The garden cafe is a sweet stop from which to sip an espresso and admire the surroundings.

DAY TRIPS

Lake Maggiore Just 1.5 hours from Menaggio, pop across the border into Switzerland to visit the sparkling waters of the Valle Verzasca (a mountain spring that feeds the lake a few miles to the south), the Verzasca Dam (featured in James Bond, you can bungee jump here), and enjoy lunch in the lovely lakeside town of Ascona. We had an incredible, local Ticinese meal in the charming courtyard of Ristorante Grotto Broggini. Try the Merlot di Bianco wine (yes, it is a white Merlot made in Ticino).

Lake Lugano About an hour from Menaggio, the city of Lugano is located within the Ticino region of Switzerland and combines Mediterranean vibes, Italian charm and Swiss efficiency. Don’t miss the Villa Principe Leopoldo. Go for a drink, dinner, or stay there as your budget permits. This 5 star villa offers stunning views overlooking Lake Lugano and the city of Lugano.

STAY

There are three villages we would recommend from which to base yourself in Lake Como - Bellagio, Mennagio or Varenna. All are beautiful and charming and offer ferry access to the surrounding villages on the lake.

Bellagio The most famous village on the lake, Bellagio is the poshest and most popular with tourists. Its golden hued streets and buildings offer plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, and activities.

Como We historically have not stayed in Como directly for more than a day wile transiting to another village- for this, the Hilton is always a safe option. On our list but not yet stayed is the stunning Villa d'Este down the lake in Cernobbio

Menaggio A quiet, family-friendly village on the lake’s western shore, Menaggio has one of the main ferry ports, a pretty promenade and piazza, and a handful of good restaurants. We would recommend the Grand Hotel Menaggio or Bellavista Hotel, and also loved our stay at this two bedroom flat through HomeAway (it was right on the lake with incredible views). This location is also easier to get to by car from Switzerland, whereas to access Varenna and Bellagio you would need to take the ferry across.

Varenna Small yet beautiful, Varenna is our top pick for a romantic getaway.

Lenno The main attraction near Lenno is the Villa del Balbianello. This is a lesser known spot but offers a good variety of Airbnbs if you struggle to find something in the surrounding villages. While Lenno is a solid option, it is not our first choice compared to the three listed above. The village has tourist necessities and is still served by the mid-lake shuttle so it is easy enough to travel to nearby villages.

Tremezzo Splash out and stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which is literally as Grand as they come. This 5-star stay is only open for summer season from March through October. For a more more affordable option in the area, try Grand Hotel Cadenabbia or an Airbnb.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Lake Como

Western Cornwall

A WEEK IN WESTERN CORNWALL

Cornwall is the land of legends — literally — as English lore tells it was home to warrior King Arthur and his Camelot. After spending a week in western Cornwall, we were charmed by not only its history (it’s also known for piratical activities and the smuggling trade), but rugged coastline, splendid hikes, stunning beaches and incredible seafood. The Cornish peninsula is home to both the most westerly and southerly points on the British mainland, and the Atlantic Gulf Stream warms its waters and climate, making it the sunniest spot in the UK. We felt the peninsula’s beautiful beaches were akin to those we’ve seen in Bermuda and elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Western Cornwall is an easy drive from London (roughly five hours, passing by Stonehenge), but it is also possible to train from major cities in the mainland UK or to fly into Newquay, the commercial airport that serves Cornwall. We recommend driving as there is much to see and many remote areas where a car is necessary. Take care while driving as roads are small and hemmed in by high hedges which affects visibility.

Prior to your visit, consider purchasing a National Trust membership. The National Trust looks after many of the nation’s coastlines, historic sites and countryside and green spaces, and is the biggest conservation charity in Europe. National Trust members receive free entrance and parking at many beaches and sites across Cornwall.

EAT

The Allotment Deli This sweet shop on Fore Street in St. Ives features local produce, cheese, beer and wine and more. It’s the perfect stop to satisfy your beach picnic needs.

Porthminster Beach Cafe Upscale dining on the beach and an excellent wine list. Perfect for date night or dinner with friends. Bookings essential.

Porthmeor Beach Cafe This trendy eatery overlooks Porthmeor Beach and the St. Ives’ coastline. Go for lunch or brunch then spend a few hours at the beach. Make a booking in advance.

Moomaid of Zennor Ice Cream Parlour Their shipwreck flavor is the best in town!

Rock Pool This hidden gem in Mousehole has a lovely, tiny patio that overlooks rock pools and Saint Michael’s Mount island. We recommend it for lunch or a sunset cocktail and snack. Try the crab sandwich.

Roly’s Fudge Pantry Try their famous vanilla clotted cream fudge.

St. Ives Bakery Several merchants mentioned that this bakery had the best bread in town and they weren’t wrong. Don’t miss the Turkish loaf or the jam-filled “cruffin” (a cross between a croissant and muffin).

Yellow Canary Next door to The Allotment Deli, they have delicious desserts.

DRINK

The Balcony Bar & Kitchen This casual eatery and bar overlooks the St. Ives harbor and is great for an afternoon beer or cocktail. If you’re feeling peckish they also have tasty tacos.

Beer Huis Grand Cafe A Belgian beer hall in St. Ives with an extensive draft and bottle list.

Wine While English wines is generally not incredibly well known on the international market, its well past the point of up and coming and actually quite good! Many English winemakers are experimenting with cooler weather grape varieties and Cornish wineries are no exception. Here were a few of our favorites:

Knightor Vineyard A bit off the beaten path, this vineyard near the Eden Project is a favorite spot for weddings. Their wine shop has an incredibly friendly bartender and we loved their very special, limited edition Portscatho Bacchus 2018.

Polgoon Vineyard Visit for a tour and tasting, though book in advance! We enjoyed their Seyval Blanc & Ortega blend. They also produce ciders.

We heard great things about Camel Valley and Trevibban Mill wineries but were unable to visit this trip.

PLAY

Beaches Cornwall’s beaches are gorgeous - soft, white sand that spreads for meters out to sea during low tide, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and grassy highlands. There are so many spectacular spots, but our favorites in St. Ives included Porthmeor and Porthminster. We also loved the family friendly Carbis Bay Beach, a five minute train ride from St. Ives. If you are up for a drive, it’s worth checking out Chapel Porth Beach in St. Agnes and Godrevy to the north, as well as Sennen Cove near Lands End.

Hiking The South West Coast Path is England's longest waymarked long-distance footpath and a National Trail. It stretches for 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset, and lines the entire coastline of Cornwall. Download the iWalk Cornwall app for a comprehensive guide to over 200 hikes in the region. Some of our favorites included:

Lands End The most westerly point in England features incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and coastline to the north. Head south on the trail to check out the Enys Dodnan Arch and beach. This is an easy, two hour hike.

Lizard The Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point in on the British mainland. We didn’t make it there but our friends raved about the hiking.

Godrevy Point An easy, family friend hike around the Point with views of the lighthouse, Godrevy beach, and if you are lucky a family of beached seals!

Mousehole Harbor This tiny fishing village is a relic of the past - visit to admire its working harbor and fisherman cottages. There are a handful of great places to eat here as well.

Saint Michael’s Mount An island is famed for its medieval church and castle that rise above Mount’s Bay. At low tide the island can be accessed by walking across the Marazion beach and tidal causeway.

St. Ives St. Ives is a beautiful, hip village with a Mediterranean vibe and a large harbor that is excellent for swimming or walking during low tibe. Spend a few hours perusing its cobblestoned streets and admiring the views from its beaches and harbor. The town also has a lovely, independent boutique scene. We especially loved Sweetlime (international-inspired jewellery and home goods) and The Painted Bird (ethically sourced home goods and gifts).

Tate St. Ives An art gallery overlooking Porthmeor Beach that features modern and contemporary British works. Artists have flocked to St. Ives since the 19th century for its beautiful natural light and landscapes, and the Tate is just one of the village’s many art galleries.

Barbara Hepworth Museum & Sculpture Garden Linked to the Tate, this museum and sculpture garden feature the works of Barbara Hepworth, a modernist English sculptor and artist.

STAY

St. Ives is a great base from which to tour the rest of western Cornwall, as it has three beaches right in town, a great restaurant and pub scene, boutiques, galleries and more. You pay for the convenience, however, and finding parking can be difficult unless it is included with accommodation. We enjoyed staying at this two bedroom HomeAway property with sea views on a quiet street. St. Ives is small and most properties within the village provide easy access to all it has to offer. However, it is quite hilly with narrow streets and those who are less mobile may find it difficult to walk around.

Those looking for something a bit quieter or more affordable than St. Ives should look just a few miles southeast in Carbis Bay, a family-friendly seaside resort village with its own beach. The train from Carbis Bay to St. Ives takes approximately three to five minutes and costs just £1 each way.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Western Cornwall

Vancouver

If traveling through the Pacific Northwest, be sure to include a stop in Vancouver! The city is wedged between the Pacific and coastal mountains which makes for a beautifully unique skyline. The city and its residents have seemed to master the balance between big city life and the mountains while charming its visitors with a laid back, friendly vibe.

Vancouver International Airport is about 15 kilometers (9 miles) from the city center. It typically takes about 30 minutes by car to arrive into downtown from the airport.

Vancouver is a bike friendly city and has the infrastructure for comfortable, self-guided tours. There are several rental shops located throughout the city. We rented near Davie Village to spend the day biking around Stanley Park.

EAT

Burgoo Kitsilano Their slogan states food is for comfort. Throw on your finest sweatpants and order the mac’n’ cheese with no regrets!

Catch 122 Cafe Bistro Cute, rustic lunch spot serving a modern take on traditional Canadian dishes.

Granville Island Public Market Located on a tiny peninsula south of the city, this is a must do in summer. The market hosts a variety of food stalls, locally sourced products and art vendors.

Wildebeest This restaurant is known for its meat-heavy farm to table menu.

DRINK

For serious beer drinkers, head to East Vancouver to experience the city’s top breweries. A few of our favorites are listed below.

Alibi Room Modern bar in Gastown with a trendy, bustling vibe. The avid IPA drinker will not be disappointed as the pub offers 50 taps of local and imported craft beers.

Granville Island Brewing Canada’s first microbrewery with tours and formal tastings. Stop here while visiting the Public Market.

Vancouver Urban Winery A stroll away from the Alibi Room, this winery offers local, Canadian wines sourced from grapes in Railtown, Vancouver. The winery also has a wide selection of ciders and beers alike.

PLAY

Gastown Head to this historic neighbourhood to explore local shops and restaurants.

Granville Island A great place to bike through and grab lunch.

Kits Beach Historically known for its hippie culture, this is a perfect spot to enjoy a day soaking in the sun and taking in the mountain views.

Stanley Park Bike through Vancouver’s “backyard”, a massive outdoor park with swimming, beaches, an aquarium, zoo, and more. Check out the Brockton Point Totem Poles which pay homage to the indigenous Salish people and their culture.

STAY

Gastown Stay here for unlimited dining options. Known for its food and young professional scene, this historic part of the city will not disappoint.

Kitsilano Kits is the place to be for hipsters and bohemians. The neighborhood offers easy access to the beach, pools and a cute Main Street (West 4th Avenue) with boutique shops and restaurants. Lululemon fans will find the city’s flagship store here.

West End A 10 minute walk from downtown, this neighborhood provides more of a relaxed, residential feel but is close to Coal Harbour, Stanley Park and the city’s beaches. Most hotels are near Robson Street.

Vancouver

LOCATIONS NEARBY