A WEEK IN WESTERN CORNWALL
Cornwall is the land of legends — literally — as English lore tells it was home to warrior King Arthur and his Camelot. After spending a week in western Cornwall, we were charmed by not only its history (it’s also known for piratical activities and the smuggling trade), but rugged coastline, splendid hikes, stunning beaches and incredible seafood. The Cornish peninsula is home to both the most westerly and southerly points on the British mainland, and the Atlantic Gulf Stream warms its waters and climate, making it the sunniest spot in the UK. We felt the peninsula’s beautiful beaches were akin to those we’ve seen in Bermuda and elsewhere in the Caribbean.
Western Cornwall is an easy drive from London (roughly five hours, passing by Stonehenge), but it is also possible to train from major cities in the mainland UK or to fly into Newquay, the commercial airport that serves Cornwall. We recommend driving as there is much to see and many remote areas where a car is necessary. Take care while driving as roads are small and hemmed in by high hedges which affects visibility.
Prior to your visit, consider purchasing a National Trust membership. The National Trust looks after many of the nation’s coastlines, historic sites and countryside and green spaces, and is the biggest conservation charity in Europe. National Trust members receive free entrance and parking at many beaches and sites across Cornwall.
EAT
The Allotment Deli This sweet shop on Fore Street in St. Ives features local produce, cheese, beer and wine and more. It’s the perfect stop to satisfy your beach picnic needs.
Porthminster Beach Cafe Upscale dining on the beach and an excellent wine list. Perfect for date night or dinner with friends. Bookings essential.
Porthmeor Beach Cafe This trendy eatery overlooks Porthmeor Beach and the St. Ives’ coastline. Go for lunch or brunch then spend a few hours at the beach. Make a booking in advance.
Moomaid of Zennor Ice Cream Parlour Their shipwreck flavor is the best in town!
Rock Pool This hidden gem in Mousehole has a lovely, tiny patio that overlooks rock pools and Saint Michael’s Mount island. We recommend it for lunch or a sunset cocktail and snack. Try the crab sandwich.
Roly’s Fudge Pantry Try their famous vanilla clotted cream fudge.
St. Ives Bakery Several merchants mentioned that this bakery had the best bread in town and they weren’t wrong. Don’t miss the Turkish loaf or the jam-filled “cruffin” (a cross between a croissant and muffin).
Yellow Canary Next door to The Allotment Deli, they have delicious desserts.
DRINK
The Balcony Bar & Kitchen This casual eatery and bar overlooks the St. Ives harbor and is great for an afternoon beer or cocktail. If you’re feeling peckish they also have tasty tacos.
Beer Huis Grand Cafe A Belgian beer hall in St. Ives with an extensive draft and bottle list.
Wine While English wines is generally not incredibly well known on the international market, its well past the point of up and coming and actually quite good! Many English winemakers are experimenting with cooler weather grape varieties and Cornish wineries are no exception. Here were a few of our favorites:
Knightor Vineyard A bit off the beaten path, this vineyard near the Eden Project is a favorite spot for weddings. Their wine shop has an incredibly friendly bartender and we loved their very special, limited edition Portscatho Bacchus 2018.
Polgoon Vineyard Visit for a tour and tasting, though book in advance! We enjoyed their Seyval Blanc & Ortega blend. They also produce ciders.
We heard great things about Camel Valley and Trevibban Mill wineries but were unable to visit this trip.
PLAY
Beaches Cornwall’s beaches are gorgeous - soft, white sand that spreads for meters out to sea during low tide, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and grassy highlands. There are so many spectacular spots, but our favorites in St. Ives included Porthmeor and Porthminster. We also loved the family friendly Carbis Bay Beach, a five minute train ride from St. Ives. If you are up for a drive, it’s worth checking out Chapel Porth Beach in St. Agnes and Godrevy to the north, as well as Sennen Cove near Lands End.
Hiking The South West Coast Path is England's longest waymarked long-distance footpath and a National Trail. It stretches for 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset, and lines the entire coastline of Cornwall. Download the iWalk Cornwall app for a comprehensive guide to over 200 hikes in the region. Some of our favorites included:
Lands End The most westerly point in England features incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and coastline to the north. Head south on the trail to check out the Enys Dodnan Arch and beach. This is an easy, two hour hike.
Lizard The Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point in on the British mainland. We didn’t make it there but our friends raved about the hiking.
Godrevy Point An easy, family friend hike around the Point with views of the lighthouse, Godrevy beach, and if you are lucky a family of beached seals!
Mousehole Harbor This tiny fishing village is a relic of the past - visit to admire its working harbor and fisherman cottages. There are a handful of great places to eat here as well.
Saint Michael’s Mount An island is famed for its medieval church and castle that rise above Mount’s Bay. At low tide the island can be accessed by walking across the Marazion beach and tidal causeway.
St. Ives St. Ives is a beautiful, hip village with a Mediterranean vibe and a large harbor that is excellent for swimming or walking during low tibe. Spend a few hours perusing its cobblestoned streets and admiring the views from its beaches and harbor. The town also has a lovely, independent boutique scene. We especially loved Sweetlime (international-inspired jewellery and home goods) and The Painted Bird (ethically sourced home goods and gifts).
Tate St. Ives An art gallery overlooking Porthmeor Beach that features modern and contemporary British works. Artists have flocked to St. Ives since the 19th century for its beautiful natural light and landscapes, and the Tate is just one of the village’s many art galleries.
Barbara Hepworth Museum & Sculpture Garden Linked to the Tate, this museum and sculpture garden feature the works of Barbara Hepworth, a modernist English sculptor and artist.
STAY
St. Ives is a great base from which to tour the rest of western Cornwall, as it has three beaches right in town, a great restaurant and pub scene, boutiques, galleries and more. You pay for the convenience, however, and finding parking can be difficult unless it is included with accommodation. We enjoyed staying at this two bedroom HomeAway property with sea views on a quiet street. St. Ives is small and most properties within the village provide easy access to all it has to offer. However, it is quite hilly with narrow streets and those who are less mobile may find it difficult to walk around.
Those looking for something a bit quieter or more affordable than St. Ives should look just a few miles southeast in Carbis Bay, a family-friendly seaside resort village with its own beach. The train from Carbis Bay to St. Ives takes approximately three to five minutes and costs just £1 each way.
LOCATIONS NEARBY
