Nairobi

The only capital city in the world to have its own national park and game reserve, Nairobi has established itself as one of the continent’s main economic hubs. It is also home to one of Africa’s largest slums. Explore the city for a few days and then head off to explore Kenya’s great wilderness.

If only entering Kenya once, apply for a visa on arrival via the Kenya eVisa site. Evidence of a yellow fever inoculation may be required at the border.

Traffic in Nairobi is notorious and it can take two hours to drive a few miles. Uber is an easy and cheap way to get around town.

If you are traveling from the US, Kenya Airways recently started a 14 hour direct service from JFK Airport to JKIA Airport in Nairobi.

Kenya is gorgeous and its true beauty lies beyond the capital city. Short, domestic flights leave daily from Wilson Airport in Nairobi for the Masaai Mara, Mombasa, the coast and beyond.

If it is your first time to Kenya or East Africa, we recommend adding the following books to your reading list to better understand the local history and context: Jacqueline Novogratz’s memoir The Blue Sweater, Isak Dinesen’s (Karen Blixen) Out of Africa and Beryl Markham’s West with the Night. For other great books by African authors, check out Chimamanda Ngozie Adichie’s Americanah and Half of a Yellow Sun, both about Nigeria. We also love Alexandra Fuller’s memoir, Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight.

EAT 

Artcaffe Tasty European bistro food in Yaya Centre. There are a few other locations around the city.

Habesha Restaurant on Argwings Kodhek Road The best Ethiopian in a cozy outdoor setting. Good for groups.

Hemingways Posh and relaxing restaurant in Karen. Stay for lunch or drinks by the pool.

Sierra Brasserie Chic spot for roof-top dining in Kilimani.

DRINK

Level 8 Lounge + Bar at the Fourpoints Sheraton in Hurlingham Rooftop bar with views of the city.

Java House A homegrown Kenyan cafe chain that can be found all over the city. Amazing coffee and ginger/lemon infusions.

PLAY

Giraffe Centre Learn about, hand feed and spent time with gentle, long-necked friends.

Nairobi National Park Nairobi is the only capital city in the world with its own national park. Take an early morning or late afternoon safari to see lions, rhinos, zebras, giraffes and more!

Maasai Market at Yaya Centre On Sundays this treasure trove features East African prints, jewelry, art work and wood carvings by local artisans and Maasai. Come prepared to haggle.

Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage Stop by this elephant rescue and rehabilitation center every day between 11am to 12pm to see the babies have their midday mud bath and feeding.

STAY

Hemingways Nairobi- treat yourself with this luxury boutique hotel stay. Located in the suburb of Karen, about 40 minutes from the Jomo Kenyatta International airport.

The Giraffe Manor - Fancy breakfast with the local giraffes? Staying at the Giraffe Manor is truly unforgettable. The manor itself is a stunning property which was built in 1932. The Manor has 12 rooms and is home to beautiful Rothschild Giraffes. The Manor is set on 12 acres of private land within 140 acres of indigenous forest in the Langata suburb of Nairobi.

Those who stay at the Manor have the opportunity to interact with the giraffes twice a day, at breakfast and at high tea. The giraffes are very friendly and used to the interaction- be careful as a few are a bit mischievous and come in for the occasional head butt!

The staff and service at the Manor are next level. Everyone was very welcoming and asked what they could do to make our stay more enjoyable.

The Safari Collection has also recently built The Retreat next to the Manor which offers guests the ability to purchase wellness packages at the Manor. The architecture and design is very well done and we loved the nod to subtle nod to the giraffe theme throughout.

The rate includes full board( all meals and drinks) and although can be pricey, it is truly a one in a lifetime stay that we highly recommend for atleast a night if you are transiting through Nairobi.

Fourpoints Sheraton in Hurlingham Central location within walking distance of Yaya Centre in Kilimani.

Ololo Safari Lodge Comfortable and quaint lodge on the outskirts of the Nairobi National Park with sweeping views.

Panari Hotel Budget option near the airport. Stay here if you have an early flight.

Villa Rosa Kempinski 5-star hotel in the Westlands with impeccable security.

Zehneria Portico Hotel Budget option for the business traveler in Westlands near the Westgate Mall.

Nairobi

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Zermatt

One of the most well-known resorts in the Swiss Alps, Zermatt’s car free mountain village sits at the base of the iconic Matterhorn. With stunning views and slopes that pass into Italy, this spot should be high on your list!

Taking the train is the easiest option as it is just three hours from Zürich. It is also possible to drive to Täsch, park and take the regional shuttle train to the village.

EAT

Chez Heini Traditional Swiss restaurant in the village.

Chez Vrony No better place on mountain. This chic alpine hut can be reached by skiing or via the winter hiking trails near Findeln. The views are incredible and the food is to die for! Try the tart flambée. Booking needed.

Findlerhof This rustic mountain restaurant near Chez Vrony is right off the Sunegga/Findeln lift. It has unmatched views of the Matterhorn, excellent service and a variety of go-to mountain dishes. Try the rösti. Booking needed. 

Giuseppe A change of pace from the traditional Swiss menus, this Italian eatery will not disappoint!

Schäferstube Alpine chalet restaurant with huge cowbells and a traditional menu. Go for the fondue or the raclette.

Snowboat  go for a lively evening with friends. The menu changes periodically but most recently we went for the burgers and cocktails. All around great choice for a fun night out!

DRINK

Drink like a local and order a Schümli Plümli, the perfect way to warm up while skiing in the Swiss Alps!

22 Summits Just a few steps away from the Matterhorn-Express and the center of Zermatt, this new 4 star hotel is an upscale spot for a coffee or drink.

Cervo Alpine-chic chalet at the bottom of Sunnega with live music and local beers

Champagne bar As the name states, this little champagne hut is the perfect apreski stop for views of the matterhorn and flutes of champagne. Located on the ski slope down from Sunnega.

Gee's Bar Nice cocktails and live music nightly. One of the few spots in the village open late

Hennu Stall Cosy drinks at the bottom of Furi-Zermatt slope.

Papperla Pub Mix with the locals with listening to live music and DJs.

Unique Hotel Post Be sure not to miss this spot- located in the heart of Zermatt, this Hotel offers three restaurants and five different bars and clubs.

PLAY

Zermat offers year-round mountain activities, and the mountain is accessible from the village by multiple lifts: Rothhorn, Gornergrat and Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. If you are not keen on mountain sports, the village also offers other activities like wellness spas and shopping.  

Hiking (summer season) With a 400 kilometer network of hiking trails, Zermatt is famous for views at every stop. Our local favorite is the Five Lakes Trail (4-6 hours).

Matterhorn Trail (Nr. 29)-Beautiful hike from Schwarzsee - Stafelalp - Zmutt - Zermatt (station). You can also do the hike in reverse but be sure to check that the gondola at Schwarzsee is running!

Furi Suspension Bridge Trail (Nr. 17a) The suspension bridge reaches 90 vertical metres above the Gornerschlucht gorge.  The roundtrip hike from the village is about 1.5 hours. Follow trail signs for “Hängebrückenweg Furi”

Mountain biking, climbing, etc.

Ski or snowboard Zermatt has over 360 kilometers of the most amazing ski slopes at affordable prices. The average price per lift pass is CHF 75. Here for a few days? Opt for the International pass which includes access to Breuil-Cervinia and Valtournenche in Italy.

Snowshoe or winter hiking 70 kilometers of prepared winter hiking trails for non-skiers. Hike up to Findeln (1.5 hours) and enjoy a lunch or coffee break in the small mountain village.

STAY

Ari Resort Located next to the Matterhorn express gondola station, this beautiful property offers apartment stays- all rooms include a Matterhorn view! About a 10 minute walk from the center of the village.

Chalet Castor This chalet sleeps a large group of up to eight friends. Book through Mountain Exposure Zermatt.

Hotel Bellerive One of our first experiences in Zermatt and still one of our favorites. Book early!  

Panorama Ski Lodge Chic and modern alpine flats with Matterhorn views. Dog friendly =)

Zermatt

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Maasai Mara

Lion King lovers rejoice! The Maasai Mara is celebrated for its stunning grassland landscapes, the Big Five animals that traverse its more than 1500 kilometers, and its annual Great Migration of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles traveling from Tanzania’s Serengeti in the south. The Mara makes for an excellent safari holiday because it is fairly compact (as compared to the Serengeti’s 30,000 kilometers) and biodiverse, meaning you can generally see a lot of different animals within a few days. The Mara has all of the Big Five (lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and water buffalo), giraffe, zebra, various species of gazelle, crocodile, hippo, baboon, cheetah, hyena, wildebeest and more.

The best time to visit the Mara is during the Great Migration, which takes places between July and October. Note that July and August are winter in Kenya, and while the days will be warm (20s Celcius) the nights and early mornings will be cool. Also, be prepared to book in advance and pay high season rates!

Most safari camps and resorts will organize flights from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to the nearest airstrip in the Maasai Mara. Flights run back and forth daily between the Nairobi and the Mara, and should be included in a full board accommodation package.

The Maasai safari guides are amazing, and a good guide will make all the difference in a great and truly fantastic experience. Make sure to tip your guides well, this is their livelihood and most of them are sending money home.

Bring cash for tips! There are no money machines and it will likely be difficult for most camps to exchange foreign money. You may also have to pay a daily reserve fee per person in cash.

EAT

Full board will be included in most safari camp and resort packages, and will provide for three meals a day. Traditional Kenyan food has many Indian influences, and is fresh and healthy. A few things to definitely try:

Chapati Fried bread influenced by the Indian subcontinent. Eat it with everything.

Mandazi Another fried bread, this Kenyan treat is most similar to a doughnut.

Sukuma Wiki Delicious boiled greens. Similar to collards in the United States.

Ugali This starchy staple is common across Kenya and often the side dish to richer stews and curries. It is a mixture of finely-ground cornmeal and water.

DRINK

Try the local Kenyan beers. Our favorites are Tusker Lager (the most popular across East Africa) and White Cap Lager. Nothing beats an ice cold Tusker at the end of a long, dusty safari run.

PLAY

Safari This is the real reason for a trip to the Maasai Mara, and take advantage of the 2-3 safari trips that your camp will plan daily. Most will start off in the morning very early, from 5:30 or 6:00am, have breakfast on the road, and head back to camp by 11:00am for guests to have lunch and relax by the pool or in the shade during the midday heat. Go out again late afternoon for a magical experience at dusk, as the animals are generally most active during the cooler parts of the day.

Shopping The Maasai people create truly stunning handicrafts. Larger resorts and camps may have items for sale, but if not you can swing by the Maasai Market in Nairobi once back in town. Keep an eye out for beaded jewellery and wall hangings, the plaid and striped traditional shuka blankets, and woven baskets and wall hangings.

STAY

Our advice is to choose a camp that has a few amenities (pool, common area, etc.) to keep you busy during the quiet afternoon time between safari. We loved the four star Mara Intrepids camp, run by the Kenya Heritage Hotels group. Tent accommodations were luxurious, we enjoyed the pool during the day, and the staff were fantastic. We have also stayed at Virgin’s Mahali Mzuri camp, which was stunning and a true glamping experience, though it will cost you a pretty penny!

Friends have also recommended Kicheche Mara North, Mara Plains and Porini Lion camp.

Maasai Mara

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Phuket

A tropical island in southwestern Thailand on the Andaman Sea, Phuket is prized for its clear beaches, jungle trekking and high-end resorts. It is well positioned as a gateway to smaller, surrounding islands, with ferries leaving daily to the Phi Phi Islands, Similians and James Bond Island.

Winter is the best time of year to visit to avoid monsoon season. The water is calmer and clearer between November to January.

If you want the freedom and mobility to explore the island on your own, scooter rentals are popular. We recommend only renting through your hotel, versus a local shop in town, to guarantee a fair price and to avoid thievery.

Tuk tuks are another popular way to get around. Be prepared to negotiate price up front and never accept the first offer.

EAT

Kata Beach One of the more popular beaches on the island, Kata is a great for restaurants and nightlife, and has a handful of spots right on the beach. It is more sophisticated than its seedier cousin, Patong Beach.

Mama Seafood Casual little restaurant serving up fresh seafood and overlooking sleepy Nai Harn beach.

DRINK

Kata Beach As mentioned above, Kata has a good nightlife scene and beach bars.

Nai Harn Reggae Bar Chill, laid-back spot with live music.

PLAY

Karon Beach One of the larger beaches on the island, it has a long strip of sand and is more commercialized than Kata Noi and Nai Harn.

Karon View Point South of Kata Noi beach, this view point has lovely vistas of the jungle, ocean and sunset.

Kata Noi Beach A smaller, quieter beach south of Karon.

Nai Harn Beach A quiet beach at the tip of the island that is a bit off the tourist track. Consistently ranked one of the prettiest beaches in Phuket.

Phuket Weekend Night Market The largest market on the island, it runs Friday through Sunday evenings.

Promthep Cape Watch the sunset and snap a few photos.

Walking Street Located in Phuket Town, this old Sino-Portuguese has interesting architecture and is a popular shopping area.

STAY

Most of the luxury resorts are on the northern part of the island. These are a good bet for relaxing away from the hustle and bustle. Angsana Laguna Phuket is well known for its long pool that snakes throughout the resort.

If you care less about staying in a five star resort, we recommend staying near Nai Harn beach. Check out the four star All Seasons, an Accor hotel.

Phuket

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Siem Reap

Siem Reap is the sleepy gateway town to the Angkor “Temple City”, a complex of 9th to 15th century temples built during the Khmer Empire. Angkor is a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to the world famous Angkor Wat.

Apply for an e-Visa through the Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs in advance of travel.

Take the temples at your own pace over two to three days. Visit the temples first thing in the morning and spend the afternoons at the pool or exploring Siem Reap. Passes to Angkor Archaeological Park must be purchased on-site in cash, in either USD, Euro or Cambodian Riel. One, three and seven day passes can be purchased.

Tuk tuks are an easy way to get around Siem Reap and Angkor. Ask your hotel to help confirm a driver for the duration of your visit, or negotiate directly with a tuk tuk driver in town.

USD is near universally accepted across Cambodia, and most payments must be made in cash. Always, always negotiate! Cambodians haggle and initial prices quoted to tourists will be nearly double the actual value.

Cambodia experienced a brutal civil war in the 1960s-70s at the hands of the Khmer Rouge regime. During the war two million Cambodians were killed by execution, starvation or disease, and millions more fled the country to resettle abroad. Before visiting, consider reading Loung Ung’s memoir, First They Killed My Father, to better understand what the country has been through and how far it has come today.

EAT

Haven Gorgeous little restaurant. Haven is a social enterprise that hires and trains disadvantaged youth and orphans as wait staff in the restaurant.

Marum Marum has a similar concept to Haven and is run by an NGO that works with street children. The restaurant features a handicrafts shop on site. Recommended by a friend.

Viva Mexican Restaurant Tasty Mexican and super cheap margaritas near Pub Street.

DRINK

Angkor What? Visit this infamous dive on Pub Street for $2 Singha beers, and then move along.

Asana Bar A cocktail bar housed within a traditional, Khmer-style wooden building. Recommended by a friend.

Miss Wong Old World, Shanghai-style cocktail bar. Recommended by a friend.

PLAY

Angkor Archaeological Park Do not miss temples include Ankor Wat (arrive before dawn to watch the sunrise), Ta Prohm (featured in Tomb Raider), Bayon and Banteay Srei (carved with pink stone, it is several miles north of the others and known as the lady temple).

Cambodian massage or reflexology Check out the local spas in Siem Reap as the services are very affordable!

Quad Adventure Cambodia A fun way to see the countryside and surrounding villages by ATV.

Siem Reap Night Market Haggle for your wares!

STAY

We recommend staying in the city center or within walking distance, as Siem Reap is quite small.

Siem Reap

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