Istanbul

Istanbul straddles both Europe and Asia and for centuries has been a physical bridge between the Orient and West. The former capital of the Roman and Byzantine Empires, Istanbul was known throughout the ancient world as Constantinople. With its views of the Bosphorus Straight and Sea of Marmara, orange tiled rooftops, and Islamic minarets, it is a stunning city. Visit for the delicious Mediterranean food, shopping in the Grand Bazaar, and gorgeous architectural antiquities including the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.

Istanbul is a delight to visit in warm weather. Go anytime spring through early summer or in the autumn. To see all the sights and fully enjoy the city, we recommend at least three days.

Be sure to check Visa requirements before visiting Turkey. Online visas can be applied for here.

From the airport, take the M1A Yenikapı - Atatürk Airport subway line to the city center. Alternatively, cabs are an option but heavy traffic can make the journey take twice as long. We would only recommend this if you arrive early morning or late in the evening.

EAT

Antiochia Hip, brick-walled restaurant in Beyoğlu with amazing food. Great spot for dinner.

Cemil Dulda'nın Yeri Mardin Meat and kebab hall next to the Grand Baazar. Try the Iskander kebab and eggplant kofte.

Dürümzade Made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain- this is a great option for a quick Kebab lunch.

Hocapasa Pidecisi Humble little lunch spot in Hocapasa serving up excellent pide (Turkish pizza). It is very near the Gülhane Parkı Çeşmesi park.

Hünkar Turkish and Ottoman food in the Nisantasi neighborhood.

Restaunt Mürver Beautiful view overlooking the Bosphorus from the top of the Novotel in Karaköy.

Tarihi Karadeniz Döner Kebab sandwiches in the Besiktas neighborhood. Great option for lunch on the go.

DRINK

Be sure to try the local tea, called çay, and Turkish coffee.

Anadolu Nargile Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi This 300 year old, former Islamic school is now a hidden shisha bar near the Grand Bazaar. This spot has an authentic, local vibe, though as with most shisha bars in Islamic countries, it does not serve alcohol.

Istiklal Caddesi There are lots of great places for drinks in the narrow streets that flow from Istiklal Caddesi, a main street near Beyoğlu and Taksim Square. Nevizade Sokak is a particularly good side street.

Mikla Trendy roof-top bar (and restaurant) in Beyoğlu. Go for cocktails and watch the sun set over the Bosphorus.

Roof Mezze 360 The name gives it away but this spot offers local Turkish dishes and drinks with amazing views across the city.

PLAY

For visits to the mosques and other monuments, we recommend buying tickets in advance. The lines are a cluster and often warrant long wait times.

Dolmabahce This is the former palace and place of death of Atatürk, the Turk hero who brought down the Ottoman Empire.

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower) Medieval tower in Karaköy quarter of the city. Historically, this was the city watchtower and now welcomes visitors to see a 360 view over Istanbul at the top of the tower.

Galataport Cruise port in the heart of Istanbul at the waterfront neighborhood of Karaköy. This new development offers restaurants, shopping, culture, and offers a beautiful promenade over the Bosphorus.

Hagia Sophia This must see Orthodox church was converted into a mosque by Muslims. After you have toured the interior, grab a Turkish coffee on the terrace of nearby restaurant Seven Hills for the best views.

Kapali Carsi Grand Bazaar. Some of our favorite shops include:

Koç In need of a leather Jacket? They have two shops, one in front of the other, but try the smaller shop. The seller speaks good English.

Recep Karaduman Beautiful Turkish Carpets, worth the visit even if you are not looking to buy.

Kiz Kulesi (Maiden's Tower) Go by ferry and enjoy the beautiful views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus from the top of the tower.

Sultanahmet Known as the Blue Mosque, this active place of worship is famous for its blue tiled interior and architecture. It is a 10 minute walk from the Hagia Sophia. Free entry.

Taksim Square The heart of the trendy Beyoğlu neighborhood, this is a hot spot for cafes, bars and people watching.

Topkapi Palace This old Ottoman palace overlooking the city which was the center of Istanbul.

Turkish Baths There are many. Don’t miss trying one!

STAY

Sultanahmet is a neighborhood close to most of the major sites but does not offer many restaurant options. We enjoyed Hotel Niles Istanbul, a tiny, boutique hotel with a lovely roof terrace that is a few blocks from the Grand Bazaar.

Otherwise, check out Beyoğlu, Beşiktaş or Nişantaşi neighborhoods. Beyoğlu is known for its proximity to bars, restaurants and shopping.

Istanbul

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Corfu

With thanks to guest contributors Anna and Patrick Lau

A LONG WEEKEND IN CORFU

Just miles from northwestern Greece and southwestern Albania, Corfu is the second largest of the Greek Ionian Islands and the best known. There is something for everyone here, and adventure seekers will enjoy hiking the dry, mountainous interior and history buffs will appreciate the UNESCO World Heritage old town within Corfu Town. Families and sun-seekers in search of a Mediterranean beach holiday will not be disappointed by the eastern shore’s calm waters and bleached, pebble beaches.

Most major cities in Europe have direct flight’s into Corfu’s Ioannis Kapodistrias Corfu international airport. Those traveling from further afield can transfer through Athens. Unless staying at a resort, we recommend hiring a car to explore on your own.

The high season (and busiest time) on the island is June through August, but the Corfu sun can be oppressive in summer. While we visited at the end of August, we would also recommend the shoulder season. The beaches will be no less beautiful in May or September!

Check out our top tips for how to spend a long weekend in Corfu.

EAT

Al’s Taverna Quiet, beachside taverna at Ipso’s Beach.

Aphrodite’s Grocery and Bakery Hands down, this family-owned grocery and bakery in Nissaki was the best. Order groceries in advance and throughout your stay directly from Aphrodite who can arrange delivery. Definitely go into the bakery and patisserie. They make incredible baklava!

Papagiorgis Patiserie-Gelateria The spot for gelato in Corfu Town. They also have vegan options.

Porta Remoundaj Classic Greek taverna in Corfu Town.

Salto Wine Bar and Bistro A friend coined it the best meal she had in Corfu Town! Also a wine bar.

Yiannis Taverna Krouzeri Friendly taverna with tasty eats on Nissaki Beach. Also a good spot for sundown drinks.

DRINK

Mikro Cafe Super cute cocktail bar in Corfu Town.

Nicoluzo Winery This boutique cellar door once held the title for Greece’s smallest winery. While the humble abode is not much to look at, winemaker Anastasio Nicoluzo is an excellent storyteller and makes damn good wine. You won’t find his bottles really anywhere else - he only sells direct to drive-by visitors, a handful of restaurants and private yachts. Call in advance before stopping by. Tastings are not available here.

Theotoky Estate This organic, family-owned winery is the most prestigious and well-known on the island. They produce a white, rose and red variety (highly recommend the white). Tours and tastings are available.

PLAY

Nissaki Beach A lovely beach on the northeast shore facing Albania. Parking is available as are umbrella and beach chair hires.

Old Venetian Fortress Worth a poke around while spending the day in Corfu Town. Lots of history here and great views of the city.

Palaiokastritsa This village on Corfu’s northwest coast makes for an excellent day trip. Visit the Monastery Paleokastritsa and stop by Akron Beach Bar and Restaurant for a beach swim and lunch.

Yacht Hop Explore Corfu by water for the day. We hired a large vessel with Yacht Hop and spent the day cruising and swimming around the island. Also check out Corfu Yachting.

STAY

The northeast beaches are some of the nicest on the island with smooth, bleached pebbles and calm waters. Our group stayed in a large villa in the hillside above Nissaki beach. MyVilla Corfu had gorgeous views of the water and was well equipped for a group of 15.

Friends spent a few nights in Corfu Town and loved the Siorra Vittoria Boutique Hotel, an 1832 converted mansion next to the town square.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Corfu

Mallorca

The largest of the four major Spanish Balearic Islands, Mallorca is less well known than its glitzy cousin, Ibiza, yet just as beautiful. Celebrated for its mountainous interior and grottos, sparkling coastline and medieval port towns, it is great for a long weekend or extended holiday.

Palma de Mallorca is the island’s international airport and it is generally easy to catch flights from most major European destinations in summer. The island is large and spread out, and unless you are planning to stay in the capital city of Palma, we highly recommend renting a car from the airport. Prices are incredibly cheap and there are a number of rental agencies. If you are heading directly to Palma from the airport, take the Number 1 bus and purchase a €4 ticket from the machine next to the bus stop.

Like most of the Mediterranean’s islands, busy season in Mallorca coincides with the European summer. If traveling between June and August, expect to pay in-season prices for accommodation, tours and more. Looking to visit during a quieter time? Mallorca would be lovely in shoulder season - April, May, September and October.

EAT

Hire a private chef Staying in an AirBnb or villa with friends or family? Consider hiring a private chef for a special dinner at home. We loved the traditional Spanish dinner prepared by Javi of Unami Mallorca, complete with local cheeses and charcuterie, tapas, paella and a local desert.

Quita Penas Valldemossa Traditional food made with local ingredients in the heart of Valldemossa. Go for lunch! Recommended by a friend.

Restaurant Nautilus Great sunset views over dinner in Palma. Recommended by a friend.

DRINK

Bodegas José L. Ferrer Visit this local winery for a tasting and then pick up a few bottles for dinner or to take home.

La Base Fun yacht bar in Port de Sóller made out of shipping containers. Recommended by a friend.

PLAY

Beach hopping Mallorca’s beaches are lovely and one of the main reasons for visiting the island. Our favorites include Formentor (stop for a beautiful view at the Mirador es Colomer along the way), Port de Pollença and Cala Barques.

Charter a boat Explore Mallorca’s coastline, hidden underwater caves, and secluded swimming spots upon a private boat with friends and family. We highly recommend Bonnie Lass Charters, located in Port de Soller, with whom we spent a full day aboard the 70 year old Bonnie Lass, a Scottish shipping boat converted into a pleasure vessel.

Palma Old Town Explore the Cathedral de Palma, Royal Palace L’Almudaina decorated in the Moorish style and the Arab Baths.

Purobeach Club Not far from Palma airport, this trendy beach club is a perfect spot to spend a relaxing afternoon with friends. Right on the water, the ambience is relaxed though picks up through the afternoon with local DJs.

Port de Sóller Visit this seaside port town for drinks at sunset for magical views of the beautiful stone buildings, surrounding hills and protected natural bay. This is also a great location from where to pick up a day trip on the water.

Sóller Just a few miles from its seaside neighbor, Port de Sóller, this inland village is worth checking out for a drink, nibbles and shopping.

Valldemossa Need a break from the beach? Spend an hour or two visiting this medieval mountain hamlet town.

STAY

You have options! If you are planning a short, romantic getaway, stay in Palma, Sóller or Port de Sóller for proximity to nightlife, culture and easy access by car to the beaches. We recommend Hotel Nakar, situated right in the heart of Palma.

If going with a group of friends, it is incredibly affordable to rent a large villa through AirBnb with grounds and a pool in a more central, remote location, and to make day trips to the towns and beaches.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Mallorca

Southern Corsica

A week in southern Corsica

Remote and rustic, Corsica is not yet as well known by the Anglo world as its southern neighbor Sardinia. The birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, for centuries Corsica was governed by the Italian Genoese, though the French eventually won the land grab. While an island in the Mediterranean, there is no party there. The Corsicans fought and won against development and today their island enjoys peaceful, Caribbean-grade beaches while avoiding the massive crowds of the Côte d'Azur. There are no hotel or restaurant chains here. Come to Corsica for real, off-the-grid rest and relaxation.

While the summer busy season is the second half of July and all of August, the island is still lovely in June and September. We recommend planning a trip longer than just a 3-4 day weekend, as the airports in the south are an hour or two by car from the best beaches.

Flights between the UK and Corsica run a few times a week, mostly on the weekends. Flights run much more frequently during the busy season between mainland France and Corsica. For easy access to the south, the closest airports are in Ajaccio and Figari. Alternatively, fly into Corsica’s capital, Bastia, which also has the island’s largest airport. However, Bastia is in the north and approximately a 2-3 hour drive south.

A rental car is absolutely needed in Corsica. Drivers take heed as the roads are winding and not for the faint-hearted. Public transport exists (though we didn’t see it), but bus routes are likely few and run far between. Many of Corsica’s prettiest beaches are remote and downhill a long, bumpy, unpaved road.

More below to help you build your itinerary for a week in southern Corsica.

EAT

Chez Ange Swanky spot at the beautiful Plage Rodinara. The road down to the restaurant and beach is long but the view was worth it. Go for lunch and try one of their decadent salads.

Chez Dume A nice, shady spot for an informal lunch in the tiny hamlet of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. Ask to sit on the veranda to admire the mountain view. This orange-roofed village makes for a sweet stop between Sartene and Zonza on the route through the Alta Rocca.

Hotel la Terrasse Quiet, romantic restaurant in Zonza with a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. Food is traditional Coriscan and delicious.

La Cave à Huile d'Olive While lunching in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano don’t miss a stop to this little olive oil producer.

Rotisserie chicken This road-side delicacy seems to be the unofficial national food of Corisca. Food trucks are everywhere and the value for money really can’t be beat.

Rotisserie Chez de Franky, north of Porto Vecchio, is one such reputable truck. Pick up a rotisserie chicken with jus and sautéed onions, and a side of pommes de terre, for a casual picnic dinner.

U Arniella Cute-yet-casual beach-side restaurant in Porto Pollo. Great seafood and pizzas. Stay for drinks and the DJ after dinner.

DRINK

Domaine de San Michelli While this winery does have a small shop in Sartène, it unfortunately doesn’t offer tastings yet. However, the wine is good (if you like juicy reds!) and can be found at most restaurants and supermarkets on the island.

Pietra Try the local beer! Order a “pression” (draft) of either blonde or amber.

PLAY

Alta Rocca This mountainous region of southern Corsica features tiny, orange-roofed hamlets, stunning vistas of sharp, rocky peaks, excellent hikes and sparkling gorges. Take a break from the beaches and spend one to two days exploring Corsica’s interior.

Bonifacio Old Town This medieval fortress town overlooking the southern-most cliffs of Corsica has stood for hundreds of years, being passed back and forth between the Italians and French. Its location is incredibly dramatic, as the Old Town and citadel are built high above what appears to be a fjord leading from the Mediterranean several miles inland. While touristy, the Old Town is adorable and quintessentially medieval. Worth a few hours of exploration and an overnight in one of the romantic boutique hotels overlooking the cliffs.

Beach hopping Corsica’s beaches are world class and we spent a perfectly relaxing vacation visiting one to two beaches each day. We’ve listed our favorites below by location:

West Coast Cupabia (quiet and family-friendly), Porto Pollo (small but is connected to a sleepy little beach town), Propriano, Campomoro (hands down our favorite and worth the trek to this western tip of the island) and Roccapina (while the drive down is treacherous, the beach is beautiful. But bring supplies as there are no facilities).

North of Porto Vecchio Favone, Pinarello (stunning, quiet and family friendly)

South of Porto Vecchio Palombaggia, Rodinara, Santa Giulia (near to Porto Vecchio, each of these were definitely the busiest beaches we came across and the most glamorous in terms of clientele)

Boating There is nothing like viewing Corsica from the water. We spent a day with Crosiere Exclusive on this day trip, visiting the islands of Lavezzu and Cavallo, and the remote coastline of southeastern Corsica.

Cascades de Polischellu Natural pools within the Alta Rocca mountain canyon that runs along the D268. Park along the side of the road and find a more secluded spot to enjoy a swim and picnic lunch after hiking in the area. This is a good stop on the D268 between Zonza and Solenzara.

Sartène 16th century town that lies at the entrance to the mountainous interior, with sweeping views of the valley below. It’s is worth a drive by and stopover for an hour or two of exploration. Wine from the Sartène AOC is also renowned on the island.

Zonza Outdoors enthusiasts will delight in this tiny, traditional mountain town in the Alta Rocca region. While the streets role up at night, it is a quaint, quiet spot from which to base oneself for mountain hikes, biking and more. Our biggest regret was not spending another night here to enjoy an extra day hiking in the mountains and swimming in the gorges.

STAY

The south of Corsica is large and the drive from the west to east coast through the Alta Rocca, from roughly Propriano to Solenzara, is about two hours. On either side of the island there are many beach towns and remote beaches dotting the coastline. Corsican towns are also quite small, exempting Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so be prepared to relax with long dinners and early-ish bedtimes. We are enclosing a mix of suggestions for a well-rounded road trip.

Bonifacio As previously mentioned, worth staying overnight at one of the hotels overlooking the cliffs and ocean.

Porto Pollo We loved spending two nights in this quiet beach village. The 3-star Auberge Kalliste Hotel Eolabel was a cozy, unassuming option with excellent breakfasts and a two minute walk from the beach.

Porto Vecchio area While there are lots of hotels and Airbnbs close to the city center, for a peaceful retreat closer to the beaches north of Porto Vecchio, check out the 3-star resort Le Kilina. It has a pool, bar, bocce court and restaurant on-site, and its rooms are shaded by tall beach pines.

Zonza As mentioned above, we wished we had stayed another night in this Alta Rocca town. While there are several options to choose from, we enjoyed the boutique Clair de Lune, a short walk from the main street and featuring a small pool.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Corsica

Provence

France’s southern region of Provence is celebrated internationally for its rosé wines, lavender products, sunshine, stunning landscapes with medieval villages, and it’s proximity to the glamorous Côte d'Azur. With so much to see and do, it is easy to spend a week exploring the region.

If traveling to Provence in the summer, you will almost surely cross paths with tourists. The lavender is in bloom in June and July, and is typically harvested in mid-July (this varies by farm). We visited in late June and while some fields were still early, others were in perfect purple splendor. If the lavender fields aren’t at the top of your list, we recommend avoiding the tourists by traveling during the spring or fall shoulder season.

Provence is a large region and our travels have covered only portions. The region is best accessed via the Marseilles or Nice Airports, and for full flexibility on schedule and timing we recommend renting a car. Choose one area to base yourself from or plan a road trip, staying somewhere new each night. We’ve highlighted our favorite towns and routes in the recommendations below.

Attempt to speak French, no matter how rusty it may be! While many in the hospitality industry will have some basic English, this is more difficult to find in smaller towns. It is easy to get by with a mixture of French, English, Google translator, and well-meaning hand gestures, but attempts at their language will go a long way with the locals.

EAT

La Fleur de Thym This gem of a culinary experience was recommended by our bed and breakfast hosts. It’s an unassuming space in the unassuming village of Flayosc, but the fish and meat dishes were fantastic. Try the three course menu.

La Guinguette du Lac This market nearby Plage Galetas and the Lac de Sainte-Croix is a good place to stock up on food stuffs and water before heading to the beach and lake.

Lavender ice cream Nothing quite like it! Find a small stall in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie featuring a non-dyed variety (many glaciers use a purple food die in their lavender ice cream, and while it looks nice it’s not necessary).

DRINK

Restaurant Le Styx at the Hotel Le Provence This restaurant and hotel in La Palud-sur-Verdon is the perfect stop for un café au lait, un biere, or snacks before continuing to or from the Gorges du Verdon. Pleasant outdoor seating in a quiet space.

Rosé wine Provence is one of the world’s top producers and exporters of rosé. There are numerous wineries and vineyards dotting the region, but if you are looking for a special tour or visit we have heard good things about Chateau d'Esclans and Domaine Rabiega. We also recommend Château d'Estoublon. We visited the Chateau while staying in nearby Les Baux-de-Provence. The winery has a selection of reds and rosés, and a delicious olive oil!

PLAY

Lavender Fields The Valensole plateau in Provence has a high concentration of lavender fields, with lavender distilleries (check out Terraoma Jaubert and Lavandes Angelvin) dotting its roadsides. Start just east of Manosque at the intersection of the D4 and D6, and take the D6 east towards Valensole. From Valensole turn left onto the D8 and head northeast. You’ll past a myriad of fields along this route, and we’ve pinned our favorite one just before the intersection of the D8 and D953.

Gorges du Verdon and Parc Naturel regional du Verdon The Gorges du Verdon are considered Europe’s Grand Canyon, and a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Come here for hiking, biking, white water rafting, kayaking, swimming, and more. Also visit the nearby icy, turquoise waters of the Lac de Sainte-Croix, where the gorge begins. The nearby village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is built into the craggy mountainside and located within the Parc.

Pont du Gard This relic remaining from the Roman occupation of France is a first century AD aqueduct. It is considered the highest of all Roman aqueduct bridges and remains one of the best preserved today, so much so that it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a magical experience to walk across the bridge and marvel at the skill of Rome’s early engineers, and admire the view across the countryside.

Provence’s many medieval villages Make time to explore! Some of the ones we’ve passed include Aups, Comps-sur-Artuby, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, La Palud-sur-Verdon and Villecroze. Stop and spend an hour in a traditional Provençal market, often held one day during the week and one day on the weekend.

DAY TRIPs

Arles and Pont du Gard Formerly a provincial capital of ancient Roman, today the sunny city of Arles retains temples and vestiges of its earlier days. Tucked up against the banks of the Rhône River, its charming streets served as inspiration for the painter Van Gogh. We highly recommend an overnight stop here, to or from your way to the Pont du Gard.

Cassis Warranting a weekend visit, this fishing village is known for its beaches, bistros and beautiful calanques. Take a boat tour of the calanques (coves formed from dramatic limestone cliffs that line the Mediterranean coast). We bought tickets the day-of at the ticket stand toward the left of the Port. The 5 Calanques tour was the perfect length! The calanques can also be explored by foot via hiking in the area or by kayak. Eat at Le Grand Bleu, located central in front of the port. While in Cassis be sure to try the local rosé and Provençal mussels.

Gorges du Verdon, Lac de Sainte-Croix and La Palud-sur-Verdon This area could easily be broken down to 2-3 days, for an easier pace. The road leading in and out of La Palud-sur-Verdon, D952, has stunning views of the Gorges far below. For a really wild ride, take the steep and craggily D23 for even more panoramas. Warning, we only recommend this route for experienced and confident drivers! The villages of Aups, Comps-sur-Artuby and Villecroze are adorable and not far from these main sites. Stop for a few hours at one of the beaches along the Lac de Sainte-Croix. We loved Plage Galetas, where we rented a paddle boat for two hours to explore the lake and gorge, and swim.

Les Baux-de-Provence One of the most beautiful villages in France, Les Baux-de-Provence sits between Arles and Saint Remy de Provence. This medieval village rests atop the hill within the Regional Park of the Alpilles, and offers charming store fronts, scenic terraces, and delicious local cuisine. We stayed one night at the bottom of the village at the 4-star Benvengudo.

Valensole Plateau and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie See above under lavendar fields. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is a great stop for a late lunch after a long morning on the D6 and D8 visiting the lavender. Stay overnight night here and then head into the Parc Naturel regional du Verdon the next day to visit the Gorges du Verdon.

STAY

Make the most of a visit to the region by road-tripping and staying in a few places. We would recommend overnight stays in some combination of Arles, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, La Palud-sur-Verdon and Draguignan. Choose a well-reviewed French bed and breakfast for a truly delightful experience with local jams and marmalades, and homemade baguettes and pastries.

We adored our overnight at Bastide des Selves, a quiet country retreat a few miles outside of in Draguignan. Run by a local couple, this small B&B has four spectacularly decorated rooms and serves up a delicious breakfast. We would come back to use Bastide as a base for a longer visit to enjoy the region’s wineries, the nearby Parc Naturel regional du Verdon and beaches of the Côte d'Azur. Both are approximately 40 minutes away by car.

Provence

LOCATIONS NEARBY