Rome

Ciao Roma! All roads lead to this city layered with thousands of years of history, with sites stacked upon each other dating back to ancient times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and now modernity. While Rome is a well beaten path on the tourist trail, it’s large and cosmopolitan enough that the crowds are easily escaped. Come for the romantic, winding streets, gelato and incredible food and wine scene, and unbeatable shopping.

Rome has two airports, Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) which most major airlines use, and Ciampino Airport which is favored by European budget airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair. While Fiumicino is the farther, about 30 miles outside the city, it’s fairly easy to take the Leonardo Express train from the airport direct to Roma Termini station in central Rome. Alternatively, a cab will run a flat rate of around €50, no more. Without traffic the trip takes approximately 30 minutes.

If you are arriving in or departing Rome by train, Termini is the most popular station. Florence is an easy 90 minute direct train and tickets are €30 one-way. Buy online in advance via ItaliaRail.

Go during the off or shoulder seasons to avoid large tourist crowds and unbeatable heat during the summer months. We loved Roma in October!

EAT

Frigidarium This tiny gelateria serves each cup or cone in dipped, melted chocolate. Go late after dinner or past lunch time, as there is always a line!

Gelateria Della Palma This grand gelato shop is two blocks north of the Pantheon and boasts 150 different flavors. Pay at the till before ordering at the bar.

La Tavernaccia While this modern taverna is a bit out of the way and looks like an Italian restaurant straight out of a New Jersey strip mall (and sounds a bit like one - American tourists trek from all over Rome to come here), the food is really, really good, the wine list is excellent and its very affordable. Book in advance.

Pizzeria da Baffeto The best pizza in Rome, with a cracker thin crust. While it looks small on the outside, this two-story pizzeria is always bustling. Well worth the 10 minute wait for a table.

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina This famed deli, eatery and restaurant has a few “shops” all on the same street. We had lunch in the tiny Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria dining room (a square table that seats eight). The wine, bread, cheese and pasta were fantastic. Book in advance.

Supplizio While the humble Roman Suppli is not as well known as its Sicilian arancini ball cousin, it’s just as delicious. This casual eatery is dedicated to the suppli. Pop in for an aperitif and snack before dinner; the cacio e pepe Suppli is a must-try!

DRINK

Alembic Cute, eclectic spot in Trastevere that hosts a €10 “aperitivo buffet” in early evening. The art on the walls is available for purchase.

Caffè Camerino There are a few in the city, but this espresso bar just north of the Jewish Ghetto is perfect for a pit stop.

Il Goccetto A cozy wine bar in the historic center popping with locals in the evenings. Stop by for a glass, bottle or a night cap.

La Boutique del Limoncello A family-owned shop featuring homemade limoncello in a variety of flavors - strawberry, pistachio, banana and more.

Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà A tiny hole-in-the-wall dive bar in Trastevere with a friendly crowd.

Open Baladin This craft beer bar in the Jewish Quarter serves up a long list of burgers and pub grub for those who need a break from pizza and pasta.

PLAY

Ancient Rome Despite being a modern city, Rome’s ancient ruins are incredibly well preserved. Visit the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palatine all on the same pass. Hot tip: the Colosseum line is notoriously long. Purchase your Roman Forum and Colosseum pass at the Forum to beat the crowds later at the Colosseum. On your way to the ancient ruins, walk past the incredibly large Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland).

Castel Sant'Angelo Not as well known as the Ancient Rome ruins or Vatican City, make time for Rome’s very own castle.

Jewish Quarter Trendy part of the city with good shopping, cafes and restaurants.

Pantheon This former temple to the Roman Gods was converted into a church in the 7th century.

Piazza Navona Large, touristy plaza dating back to the first century.

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini’s Capuchin Crypt For those with a strong stomach, and who want to see something totally unique, for €8 you can visit the Bone Church of Rome. Beneath this church lies a crypt featuring an art installation constructed with the bones of thousands of skeletons.

Spanish Steps

Trastevere Referred to by the locals as the last-standing, truly authentic Roman neighborhood. This trendy locale is excellent for self guided walks, photography and people watching.

Trevi Fountain An epic work of sculpture, the Fountain is always filled with tourists but worth seeing. Go early! Make a wish and toss in a euro or two.

The Vatican and Saint Peter’s Square No visit to Rome is complete without a trip to the world’s smallest country. Book evening tickets to avoid the large crowds.

STAY

We love the Jewish Quarter and the neighborhood just next door, the area that stretches just west of it along the River Tiber up to the Museo di arte sacra San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. We stayed in this two bedroom AirBnb which was the perfect launch pad for walking to all of the sites.

For a more local experience, consider staying in the lovely Trastevere neighborhood. It will be a bit further from the main sites but an excellent place for dinner and going out in the evening.

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Rome

Western Jordan (Aqaba, Petra, Wadi Rum)

From its ancient lost cities, Bedouin desert-dwellers, desert landscapes and clear Red Sea beaches, western Jordan stuns with beauty and history.

For both Petra and Wadi Rum, fly into the Jordan capital of Amman or the Red Sea city of Aqaba. Or, cross by land at the Wadi Araba Border Crossing between the Red Sea towns of Eilat, Israel and Aqaba, Jordan.

The Jordan Pass provides entry to over 40 major sites, including Petra and Wadi Rum, and for many nationalities covers the cost of a visa if staying in Jordan three or more nights.

If traveling from Israel to Jordan by land, note that rental cars are not permitted to be driven across the border. We entered Jordan via the Wadi Araba Border Crossing and left our rental car on the Israeli side in the Yitzhak Rabin Border Crossing parking lot before coming back into Israel.

As Americans with Jordan passes, we were able to receive visas on-arrival at the Wadi Araba Border Crossing.

If you do not want to rent a car in Jordan, we highly recommend the drivers from Bedouin Directions. Owner Mehedi Saleh Al-Hewaitaat is incredibly responsive and professional, and our drivers were knowledgeable and on-time.

Consider spending at least two days in Petra. The park is enormous and there are several difficult but rewarding hikes. Taking the park at a slower pace will allow you to see more and head back to town for a beer or swim in the afternoons when the park gets hot and crowded with day-trippers.

EAT

Alibaba Restaurant in Aqaba Casual place near the city centre with fresh seafood from the Red Sea.

Red Cave Restaurant in Wadi Musa/Petra Near the Petra Visitor Center, this restaurant serves simple but delicious bedouin fare.

DRINK

Cave Bar Next door to the Petra Visitor Center, this ancient cave is great for a drink at the end of a long day.

PLAY

Petra This 2000+ year old ancient city is a World Heritage site. Built by the Nabateans, it was eventually conquered by the Romans and abandoned centuries later after two earthquakes and changes to trade routes. An absolutely incredible and spiritual experience.

Wadi Rum The beauty of Wadi Rum’s mountains and rock formations against the dramatic red desert sands is unparalleled.

STAY

A few thoughts by location:

Aqaba Stay near the city centre or at one of the resorts on the beach, as the Al-Ghandour public beach is not very nice and would be uncomfortable for Western women in bathing suits. We enjoyed our stay at the Hilton DoubleTree in town, which was midrange, but the InterContinental, Kempinski and Movenpick all have private beaches on the Red Sea.

Petra/Wadi Musa Staying within walking distance of the Petra Visitor Center is critical. The Petra Palace Hotel is a basic, 3-star hotel very near the entrance. For those looking for something a bit more luxurious, try the Petra Guest House or Movenpick Resort Petra.

Wadi Rum Stay at a camp to fully experience the desert and stars by night. Most camps provide dinner and breakfast and can organize tours. We loved the Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp, which had excellent facilities, a lovely community tent and delicious food. For glamping, try bubble tents at Memories Aicha Camp and Sun City Camp.

Western Jordan

Kyoto

Kyoto was the ancient imperial city of Japan. Today, many of its temples and structures are still standing and enjoy UNESCO World Heritage status.

Kyoto is a 75 minute train ride from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport, or a two and a half hour shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo.

The Kyoto Gion Matsuri Festival happens each July and is one of the most famous in all of Japan. The city celebrates with parades, floats and festival food stalls. While crowded, it is an unforgettable time to visit.

EAT

Nishiki Market A fun place to walk through and have a meal.

Kaiseki Kyoto’s haute cuisine is a beautiful, multi-course meal that originated 500 years ago.

DRINK

The Gion District This part of the city escaped bombing in World War II and remains one of the most well-preserved areas of the city. Visit the old tea houses in this old geisha district, and if you are lucky, you may spot one of the few geishas left. Hanami Street is a particularly lovely walk.

Pontocho This narrow, ancient alley is over 500 years old. The area is well known for its excellent nightlife, dining, and is in general a lovely area to walk around at night.

PLAY

Arashiyama Beautiful, tightly packed bamboo groves.

Fushimi Inari A short train ride outside of Kyoto’s main station, this Shinto shrine is a spiritual place. Thousands of brightly colored tori arches are arranged throughout the forest like dominoes.

Ginkakuji and Kinkakuji Temples The Silver and Golden Pavilions, respectively, are among the most famous of Kyoto’s thousands of temples. Rent bikes for a self-led tour.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

Shosei-en Garden Traditional temple garden.

The Philosopher’s Path A nice walk or bike along a peaceful stream. The path is very near Ginkakuji.

Yasaka-jinja A Shinto shrine in Gion.

STAY

We recommend basing yourself in Kawaramachi, Gion or near Kyoto Station. All are within walking distance of good food, nightlife and most of the top sites.

Kyoto

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