Jungfrau

The Jungfrau region is a picture perfect, “postcard” destination. With views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains, it is revered as one of the most beautiful valleys in Switzerland. We’ve lived in Switzerland for seven years and easily count it as one of our favorite corners of the country. Beautiful alpine meadows, waterfalls, charming chalets and iconic mountain views are waiting beyond every peak and turn.

If planning to travel in Switzerland for a few days via train, it is worth looking into the SBB Swiss pass for discounted rail tickets.

Jungfrau is a “must” stop on any Swiss holiday to connect with nature, enjoy stunning vistas of the Alps and the peaceful village life. Our favorite villages in the region include:

Grindewald Located at the foot of the Eiger North face, Grindewald offers a wide range of summer and winter activities. The village is best reached by car (2 hours) or train (2 hours 45 minutes).

Lauterbrunnen The village sits at the base of the Jungfrau valley and is surrounded by five other Swiss villages, the most notable being Wengen and Mürren. Lauterbrunnen can be reached by train and car. It is 20 minutes by train from Interlaken and 2 hours from Zurich HB. If you are traveling by car, check with your hotel or lodge on parking availability. Many offer free parking.

Mürren This quiet, car-free village offers stunning views of the Alps. We usually hike to the village but it is worth an overnight stay if it is your first time. The main street has shops with typical Swiss products and outdoor gear for local sports. From Mürren, visit the beautiful area of Allmendhubel which offers stunning views at 1907 meters. For those staying in Mürren or the other car-free village, Wengen, there is a paid parking garage next to the main stations.

Wengen Celebrated for is amazing views over the valley, Wengen offers more restaurant and nightlife options than Mürren. Stay here if traveling with a group of friends or family.

EAT & Drink

Air Time Café This is a quick(er) option for lunch in the Lauterbrunnen valley. A great spot for a sandwich and a cold beer or coffee to go.

Da Sina Pizzeria The perfect restaurant and pub combo when you have had enough cheese and chocolate. The pizzas are highly recommended and the service is friendly.

Hotel Eiger Restaurant We visited this spot after the Mountain View Trail hike for lunch. The terrace offers incredible views of the Eiger and a variety of options for meals.

Hotel Schonneg`s Restaurant 1903 This charming restaurant specializes in traditional Swiss cuisine. Try the delicious Flammkuchen!

Restaurant Baeren This spot serves up European dishes using local and regional products that vary by season. Weather permitting, try dining on the terrace to enjoy the beautiful views. En guete!

If you plan to hike and are looking to pack your lunch, there is a Coop grocery store in Wengen village near the train station. Or, checkout the local Chäs-Gruebi for cheese, wine and other regional products.

PLAY

Cable Cars An alternative to skiing, take advantage of the many trains and cable cars that feature views of the region’s highlights, including Kleine Scheidegg, Jungfraujoch and Grindewald First.

Day Hikes In late-spring through autumn, enjoy 500 kilometers of marked hiking trails with amazing views of the Alps. Check the Jungfrau region website before starting your journey, as trails may be closed in shoulder season due to snow and weather conditions. We are enclosing a few of our favorite hikes below:

Bachalpsee This circular trail begins at Grindewald-First and goes to Balalpsee and back. Round trip it takes about 1hr 45 minutes and covers 5.8km. Enjoy the alpine meadows and beautiful views of the mountain lake with the reflection of the Alps.

Mountain View Trail Looking for a hike with iconic mountain views? Look no further. This hike lies high above Lauterbrunnen valley, goes through alpine meadows and ends in Allmendhubel/Mürren. To start, take the gondola from Lauterbrunnen to Grützschalp. Follow the yellow-marked hiking signs to Allmendhubel (they will also say Mountain View Trail). Tickets for the Grützschalp gondola can be purchased via the SBB app or at the ticket counter in the Lauterbrunnen train station. One-way covers 5.1km in about 2 hrs, and is medium grade.

Panoramic Trail (Panoramaweg) This hiking trail goes from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidigg. You can, however, start your journey from Wengen by taking the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen. You can also hike this portion but it is a steep climb and will add 2-3 hours. One way, the trail is 4.5km and doable in 1.25 hrs. It is easy grade.

Jungfrau Marathon trail (partial) Looking for a longer, more challenging hike? Try the hike from Wengen —> Wengeralp —> Kleine Scheidegg through the Jungfrau Marathon trail. The length one way is 7km, taking roughly 2hr 45min, and medium grade.

Lauterbrunnen Valley There are two good options:

• Staubbach Falls Close to the Lauterbrunnen train station, this waterfall is the third highest in Switzerland.

• Trümmelbach Falls These famous falls comprise of 10 glacier waterfalls, that are accessible via underground lifts, tunnels, paths and platforms.

Winter Skiing Wengen’s Kleine Scheidegg-Männlichen is the ideal starting point, boasting 110 kilometers of beginner, medium and difficulty pistes. This area allows access to the neighboring resorts of Grindelwald-First and Mürren-Schilthorn. For non-skiers and boarders, it also offers toboggan runs, sledging (Swiss sledding) and 50 kilometers of winter hiking trails.

Summer Sports If planning a visit in warmer weather, do not miss the opportunity to go canyoning, paragliding, river rafting, sky-diving and zip-lining.

STAY

We recommend staying in Wengen for ease of access around the region. For a relaxing stay near the train station, we recommend Hotel Wengenerhof. While the interior is a bit dated interior (typical in Switzerland), the hotel is reasonably priced for the region. Opt for a mountain view room for amazing views of the valley. The hotel is also pet-friendly.

Another good option is Hotel Schönegg (recommended by a friend).

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Lauterbrunnen Valley /Wengen

Mallorca

The largest of the four major Spanish Balearic Islands, Mallorca is less well known than its glitzy cousin, Ibiza, yet just as beautiful. Celebrated for its mountainous interior and grottos, sparkling coastline and medieval port towns, it is great for a long weekend or extended holiday.

Palma de Mallorca is the island’s international airport and it is generally easy to catch flights from most major European destinations in summer. The island is large and spread out, and unless you are planning to stay in the capital city of Palma, we highly recommend renting a car from the airport. Prices are incredibly cheap and there are a number of rental agencies. If you are heading directly to Palma from the airport, take the Number 1 bus and purchase a €4 ticket from the machine next to the bus stop.

Like most of the Mediterranean’s islands, busy season in Mallorca coincides with the European summer. If traveling between June and August, expect to pay in-season prices for accommodation, tours and more. Looking to visit during a quieter time? Mallorca would be lovely in shoulder season - April, May, September and October.

EAT

Hire a private chef Staying in an AirBnb or villa with friends or family? Consider hiring a private chef for a special dinner at home. We loved the traditional Spanish dinner prepared by Javi of Unami Mallorca, complete with local cheeses and charcuterie, tapas, paella and a local desert.

Quita Penas Valldemossa Traditional food made with local ingredients in the heart of Valldemossa. Go for lunch! Recommended by a friend.

Restaurant Nautilus Great sunset views over dinner in Palma. Recommended by a friend.

DRINK

Bodegas José L. Ferrer Visit this local winery for a tasting and then pick up a few bottles for dinner or to take home.

La Base Fun yacht bar in Port de Sóller made out of shipping containers. Recommended by a friend.

PLAY

Beach hopping Mallorca’s beaches are lovely and one of the main reasons for visiting the island. Our favorites include Formentor (stop for a beautiful view at the Mirador es Colomer along the way), Port de Pollença and Cala Barques.

Charter a boat Explore Mallorca’s coastline, hidden underwater caves, and secluded swimming spots upon a private boat with friends and family. We highly recommend Bonnie Lass Charters, located in Port de Soller, with whom we spent a full day aboard the 70 year old Bonnie Lass, a Scottish shipping boat converted into a pleasure vessel.

Palma Old Town Explore the Cathedral de Palma, Royal Palace L’Almudaina decorated in the Moorish style and the Arab Baths.

Purobeach Club Not far from Palma airport, this trendy beach club is a perfect spot to spend a relaxing afternoon with friends. Right on the water, the ambience is relaxed though picks up through the afternoon with local DJs.

Port de Sóller Visit this seaside port town for drinks at sunset for magical views of the beautiful stone buildings, surrounding hills and protected natural bay. This is also a great location from where to pick up a day trip on the water.

Sóller Just a few miles from its seaside neighbor, Port de Sóller, this inland village is worth checking out for a drink, nibbles and shopping.

Valldemossa Need a break from the beach? Spend an hour or two visiting this medieval mountain hamlet town.

STAY

You have options! If you are planning a short, romantic getaway, stay in Palma, Sóller or Port de Sóller for proximity to nightlife, culture and easy access by car to the beaches. We recommend Hotel Nakar, situated right in the heart of Palma.

If going with a group of friends, it is incredibly affordable to rent a large villa through AirBnb with grounds and a pool in a more central, remote location, and to make day trips to the towns and beaches.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Mallorca

Positano

An escape that needs no introduction, Positano consistently tops our list of the most stunning coastal villages in Europe. It is no surprise that this trendy village is a highlight stop on any trip to the Italian Amalfi Coast. Come here to enjoy amazing food, wine, views, beaches, and beautiful weather. We visited over a long weekend but generally recommend at least three days. If you have time, combine this stop with a trip to Naples and Capri.

The best way to arrive in Positano is through Naples. Most cities within Europe will have have direct flights in and out of the southern Italian city. To get to the Amalfi coast, we highly recommend renting a car or hiring a private transfer. Most car rentals and shuttles depart from Napoli Centrale, the central train station in Naples, and it is very easy to take the Alibus directly from the airport to Centrale (have euro cash on hand). The drive from Naples Centrale to Positano takes roughly 90 minutes. We have had mixed experiences with transfer companies.

Note that the Amalfi Coast is packed with tourists from all over the world during the summer months. If you want to visit between June and August, book accommodation several months in advance. The shoulder seasons, including the months of April - May, and September, are lovely and quieter times to visit this region.

EAT

Buca di Bacco 1916 A cafe in the harbor with amazing ocean views. Excellent choice for dinner or for an afternoon cocktail.

Collina Bakery Take away coffee, traditional baked goods, and gelato. Yes, please!

Next2 Simple yet elegant delicious cocktails and amazing food. This was one of our favorite meals in Positano. Opt for a seat on the terrace for a romantic setting.

Ristorante Bruno High street views overlooking the beautiful village of Positano. A more casual option with moderately priced dishes.

Ristorante La Sponda Recommended by a friend.

DRINK

Amalfi Coast is also well-known for the famous Amalfi lemons which are literally the size of grapefruits, maybe bigger. Be sure to try the local Limoncello as an after-dinner digestif.

Champagne Bar at Le Sirenuse Classy stop for pre-dinner drinks, great views over the village and sea.

Music on the Rocks Looking for an authentic disco and night club experience? The club offers excellent views and vibes with a mixed crowd of locals and tourists. Music can be hit or miss depending on the night but overall offers some nightlife in the village.

PLAY

The Amalfi Coast is best explored by boat. We highly recommend taking at least a day trip, if not longer, to explore the surrounding coastal villages and islands. Do not miss Capri and Amalfi during your stay! Capri is a small, chic island off the coast of southern Italy, and offers some of the best beaches and shopping. Capri can be reached by ferry from Positano (about 40 minutes). You can check out the ferry schedule is here.

Marina Grande Beach Relax and enjoy the sun at the main beach in Positano. Go early to get a lounger. They typically run about 10€.

Positano Boats We chose the Emerald Grotto & Amalfi Coast tour. We skipped the grotto and instead lounged on the boat. We definitely recommend exploring the village of Amalfi. Although touristy, we enjoyed checking out the local shops, wine bars, and gelato stands for a break from the sun.

Positano Village It is definitely worth an afternoon or a morning to enjoy the colorful village itself. Wander around the winding streets, enjoying the small boutiques and local Italian shops. Bring your camera as the views at every turn are picture-worthy. This village is a photographers dream!

Ralla Antonio Custom sandals in Positano! Although small, the shop offers a wide variety of styles and colors. The owners are friendly and the process of custom fitting is fairly quick.

STAY

We traveled with a group of friends so we stayed in an AirBnb on the hill close to Next2. Definitely book in advance to secure a spot within the village itself. While small and walkable, walking around Positano is not for those who have difficulties managing steps. There are incredibly steep stairs the higher up you stay in the village. If you are renting a car, also be sure to inquire about parking at your accommodation.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Positano

Southern Corsica

A week in southern Corsica

Remote and rustic, Corsica is not yet as well known by the Anglo world as its southern neighbor Sardinia. The birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, for centuries Corsica was governed by the Italian Genoese, though the French eventually won the land grab. While an island in the Mediterranean, there is no party there. The Corsicans fought and won against development and today their island enjoys peaceful, Caribbean-grade beaches while avoiding the massive crowds of the Côte d'Azur. There are no hotel or restaurant chains here. Come to Corsica for real, off-the-grid rest and relaxation.

While the summer busy season is the second half of July and all of August, the island is still lovely in June and September. We recommend planning a trip longer than just a 3-4 day weekend, as the airports in the south are an hour or two by car from the best beaches.

Flights between the UK and Corsica run a few times a week, mostly on the weekends. Flights run much more frequently during the busy season between mainland France and Corsica. For easy access to the south, the closest airports are in Ajaccio and Figari. Alternatively, fly into Corsica’s capital, Bastia, which also has the island’s largest airport. However, Bastia is in the north and approximately a 2-3 hour drive south.

A rental car is absolutely needed in Corsica. Drivers take heed as the roads are winding and not for the faint-hearted. Public transport exists (though we didn’t see it), but bus routes are likely few and run far between. Many of Corsica’s prettiest beaches are remote and downhill a long, bumpy, unpaved road.

More below to help you build your itinerary for a week in southern Corsica.

EAT

Chez Ange Swanky spot at the beautiful Plage Rodinara. The road down to the restaurant and beach is long but the view was worth it. Go for lunch and try one of their decadent salads.

Chez Dume A nice, shady spot for an informal lunch in the tiny hamlet of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. Ask to sit on the veranda to admire the mountain view. This orange-roofed village makes for a sweet stop between Sartene and Zonza on the route through the Alta Rocca.

Hotel la Terrasse Quiet, romantic restaurant in Zonza with a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. Food is traditional Coriscan and delicious.

La Cave à Huile d'Olive While lunching in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano don’t miss a stop to this little olive oil producer.

Rotisserie chicken This road-side delicacy seems to be the unofficial national food of Corisca. Food trucks are everywhere and the value for money really can’t be beat.

Rotisserie Chez de Franky, north of Porto Vecchio, is one such reputable truck. Pick up a rotisserie chicken with jus and sautéed onions, and a side of pommes de terre, for a casual picnic dinner.

U Arniella Cute-yet-casual beach-side restaurant in Porto Pollo. Great seafood and pizzas. Stay for drinks and the DJ after dinner.

DRINK

Domaine de San Michelli While this winery does have a small shop in Sartène, it unfortunately doesn’t offer tastings yet. However, the wine is good (if you like juicy reds!) and can be found at most restaurants and supermarkets on the island.

Pietra Try the local beer! Order a “pression” (draft) of either blonde or amber.

PLAY

Alta Rocca This mountainous region of southern Corsica features tiny, orange-roofed hamlets, stunning vistas of sharp, rocky peaks, excellent hikes and sparkling gorges. Take a break from the beaches and spend one to two days exploring Corsica’s interior.

Bonifacio Old Town This medieval fortress town overlooking the southern-most cliffs of Corsica has stood for hundreds of years, being passed back and forth between the Italians and French. Its location is incredibly dramatic, as the Old Town and citadel are built high above what appears to be a fjord leading from the Mediterranean several miles inland. While touristy, the Old Town is adorable and quintessentially medieval. Worth a few hours of exploration and an overnight in one of the romantic boutique hotels overlooking the cliffs.

Beach hopping Corsica’s beaches are world class and we spent a perfectly relaxing vacation visiting one to two beaches each day. We’ve listed our favorites below by location:

West Coast Cupabia (quiet and family-friendly), Porto Pollo (small but is connected to a sleepy little beach town), Propriano, Campomoro (hands down our favorite and worth the trek to this western tip of the island) and Roccapina (while the drive down is treacherous, the beach is beautiful. But bring supplies as there are no facilities).

North of Porto Vecchio Favone, Pinarello (stunning, quiet and family friendly)

South of Porto Vecchio Palombaggia, Rodinara, Santa Giulia (near to Porto Vecchio, each of these were definitely the busiest beaches we came across and the most glamorous in terms of clientele)

Boating There is nothing like viewing Corsica from the water. We spent a day with Crosiere Exclusive on this day trip, visiting the islands of Lavezzu and Cavallo, and the remote coastline of southeastern Corsica.

Cascades de Polischellu Natural pools within the Alta Rocca mountain canyon that runs along the D268. Park along the side of the road and find a more secluded spot to enjoy a swim and picnic lunch after hiking in the area. This is a good stop on the D268 between Zonza and Solenzara.

Sartène 16th century town that lies at the entrance to the mountainous interior, with sweeping views of the valley below. It’s is worth a drive by and stopover for an hour or two of exploration. Wine from the Sartène AOC is also renowned on the island.

Zonza Outdoors enthusiasts will delight in this tiny, traditional mountain town in the Alta Rocca region. While the streets role up at night, it is a quaint, quiet spot from which to base oneself for mountain hikes, biking and more. Our biggest regret was not spending another night here to enjoy an extra day hiking in the mountains and swimming in the gorges.

STAY

The south of Corsica is large and the drive from the west to east coast through the Alta Rocca, from roughly Propriano to Solenzara, is about two hours. On either side of the island there are many beach towns and remote beaches dotting the coastline. Corsican towns are also quite small, exempting Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so be prepared to relax with long dinners and early-ish bedtimes. We are enclosing a mix of suggestions for a well-rounded road trip.

Bonifacio As previously mentioned, worth staying overnight at one of the hotels overlooking the cliffs and ocean.

Porto Pollo We loved spending two nights in this quiet beach village. The 3-star Auberge Kalliste Hotel Eolabel was a cozy, unassuming option with excellent breakfasts and a two minute walk from the beach.

Porto Vecchio area While there are lots of hotels and Airbnbs close to the city center, for a peaceful retreat closer to the beaches north of Porto Vecchio, check out the 3-star resort Le Kilina. It has a pool, bar, bocce court and restaurant on-site, and its rooms are shaded by tall beach pines.

Zonza As mentioned above, we wished we had stayed another night in this Alta Rocca town. While there are several options to choose from, we enjoyed the boutique Clair de Lune, a short walk from the main street and featuring a small pool.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Corsica

Scottish Highlands

Scotland’s Highlands are not for the faint-hearted, with their rugged mountains, prehistoric stone circles, crumbling castles and incredible Scotch whisky. Those in search of a truly remote and rustic retreat will appreciate these lands, previously home to fierce warriors and tribal clans. Outlander fans, take note: the magic of the Highlands is real!

Scottish weather is notoriously temperamental, and its winters are bitter cold and the days short, given its high geographical latitude. We recommend visiting during the summer months, where temperatures in the Highlands can still hover at around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) during the day, and drop even lower at night.

To reach the Highlands there are a few options. Inverness is the region’s capital and accessible via plane from most UK cities. Check out the overnight New Caladonian Sleeper Train, leaving from London Euston station at around 9pm and arriving into Inverness the following morning before 9am, for a magical experience. Alternatively, fly or take the Virgin train from London directly into Edinburgh, Scotland’s de facto cultural capital, and travel northward from there. The Highlands are vast and a rental car is an absolute must for getting around. Be warned, however, as Highlands roads are generally winding, single-lane roads.

The Highlands are expansive and it can feel overwhelming to try and cram the remote, westerly Isles into the same trip as the central Cairngorms and eastern coastline. Both Inverness and Edinburgh are at least a few hours from many of the sites. Unless planning a long weekend to a specific area, take your time and plan a road trip over a series of 5 days to two weeks.

EAT

Bean for Coffee Cute cafe in Ballater for breakfast. Delicious scones.

Chalmers Bakery Known as “The Queen’s Bakery”, they have incredible savoury pies and doughnuts. Pick up a few baked goods for lunch before heading off on a hike.

Fern Cottage Mediterranean food in Pitlochry. A quiet, romantic place for dinner.

Walker’s Shortbread Factory If you are in Speyside tasting whisky, don’t miss a visit to the Walker’s factory in Aberlour. Scottish shortbread is buttery and sugary delicious-ness, and makes a great gift for friends and family back home.

DRINK

The Dores Inn Have a pint over a sun downer at this pub on the northern shores of Loch Ness. Highly recommended by the locals.

Scotch Whisky The Highlands’ fresh, clean air and mountain springs contribute to the production of incredible whisky (take note, Scottish whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, unlike its American cousins). The Highlands and Speyside (a Highlands region just east of Inverness with a high concentration of distilleries) make up two of the five prominent Scottish whisky-making regions. In Speyside, we recommend tastings at Balvanie, Glenfidditch, Glenlivet and Macallan. If traveling to Pitlochry, do not miss one of the last traditional distilleries in all of Scotland, Edradour, where you can do a full tour and tasting.

PLAY

Cairngorms National Park The UK’s largest national park is home to the Cairngorms mountain region in the eastern Highlands. These rolling, barren hills of the Cairngorms are breathtaking and home to isolated lochs, walking paths, forests, rivers, tiny villages, whisky distilleries and remote castles.

Castle hunting Scotland has hundreds of crumbling castles dotting its lands, and it can be helpful to better understand the brutal history of its clans by visiting a few. Our favorite was Balvenie, an incredibly well-preserved 16th century castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed overnight. Others in and around the Cairngorms, Inverness and Pitlochry include Ballendoch, Balmoral (The Queen’s home in Scotland), Blair, Corgarff and Urquhart (on the shores of Loch Ness, it dates over 1000 years and its ruins are worth a morning visit before the crowds come later in the day).

Clava Cairns Pre-historic burial temples and rock circles just 10 minutes east of Culloden. Outlander fans will delight in the inspiration for Craig na Dun.

Culloden Battlefield The site where Bonny Prince Charlie’s Jacobite army of Highlanders made its last stand against the British. After Culloden the British took back the Highlands, disbanded the clans and outlawed the speaking of Gaelic, forever changing the Highlander way of life. Check out the visitors’ center exhibit and walk across the lonely grounds and burial sites. Purchase tickets in advance.

Inverness The small Highlands capital is worth a visit or overnight on its own.

Loch Ness Spend a day searching for Nessie, the famed Loch Ness Monster! Spots along the roads encircling the Loch include the beautiful Falls of Foyers (a steep hike to view the falls), Fort Augustus (a charming, loch-side town and stop for lunch), the beautiful Loch Mhor, Urquhart Castle (noted above) and Suidhe Viewpoint (for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside).

Pitlochry While touristy, this village south of the Cairngorms is a great overnight stop to soak in some quintessential Scottish hospitality. We enjoyed a three mile hike that featured stops at the Black Spout falls and Edradour Distillery (see above).

Speyside Cooperage While in Speyside, do not miss a tour of this local whisky barrel-making cooperage, home to an ancient and dying art. Call in advance to schedule tours.

DAY TRIPS

Given the expansiveness of the region, we’ve grouped spots referenced above into suggested day trips.

Cairngorms National Park and Ballater Castle

Inverness, Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns

Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle and surrounding area

Pitlochry, Blair Castle and Edradour Distillery

Speyside Whisky Trail, Speyside Cooperage and Balvenie Castle

STAY

Cairngorms National Park While there are bed and breakfasts aplenty within Ballater or the National Park, we stayed several nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Craigendarroch resort. The Hilton was within driving distance of the Cairngorms and Speyside.

We heard great things from a friend and locals about the small villages of Elgin and Lossiemouth along the northeastern coast, also not far from Speyside.

Inverness We were with family and loved this two bedroom apartment about a 15 minute walk from the high street and main sites. It was also convenient for street parking and easy access out of town to Culloden.

Pitlochry Check out the Westlands (4-star), McKay’s Hotel and Fisher’s Hotel (budget, 3-star), all on the main high street.

LOCATIONS NEARBY

Scottish Highlands