Scotland’s Highlands are not for the faint-hearted, with their rugged mountains, prehistoric stone circles, crumbling castles and incredible Scotch whisky. Those in search of a truly remote and rustic retreat will appreciate these lands, previously home to fierce warriors and tribal clans. Outlander fans, take note: the magic of the Highlands is real!
Scottish weather is notoriously temperamental, and its winters are bitter cold and the days short, given its high geographical latitude. We recommend visiting during the summer months, where temperatures in the Highlands can still hover at around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) during the day, and drop even lower at night.
To reach the Highlands there are a few options. Inverness is the region’s capital and accessible via plane from most UK cities. Check out the overnight New Caladonian Sleeper Train, leaving from London Euston station at around 9pm and arriving into Inverness the following morning before 9am, for a magical experience. Alternatively, fly or take the Virgin train from London directly into Edinburgh, Scotland’s de facto cultural capital, and travel northward from there. The Highlands are vast and a rental car is an absolute must for getting around. Be warned, however, as Highlands roads are generally winding, single-lane roads.
The Highlands are expansive and it can feel overwhelming to try and cram the remote, westerly Isles into the same trip as the central Cairngorms and eastern coastline. Both Inverness and Edinburgh are at least a few hours from many of the sites. Unless planning a long weekend to a specific area, take your time and plan a road trip over a series of 5 days to two weeks.
EAT
Bean for Coffee Cute cafe in Ballater for breakfast. Delicious scones.
Chalmers Bakery Known as “The Queen’s Bakery”, they have incredible savoury pies and doughnuts. Pick up a few baked goods for lunch before heading off on a hike.
Fern Cottage Mediterranean food in Pitlochry. A quiet, romantic place for dinner.
Walker’s Shortbread Factory If you are in Speyside tasting whisky, don’t miss a visit to the Walker’s factory in Aberlour. Scottish shortbread is buttery and sugary delicious-ness, and makes a great gift for friends and family back home.
DRINK
The Dores Inn Have a pint over a sun downer at this pub on the northern shores of Loch Ness. Highly recommended by the locals.
Scotch Whisky The Highlands’ fresh, clean air and mountain springs contribute to the production of incredible whisky (take note, Scottish whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, unlike its American cousins). The Highlands and Speyside (a Highlands region just east of Inverness with a high concentration of distilleries) make up two of the five prominent Scottish whisky-making regions. In Speyside, we recommend tastings at Balvanie, Glenfidditch, Glenlivet and Macallan. If traveling to Pitlochry, do not miss one of the last traditional distilleries in all of Scotland, Edradour, where you can do a full tour and tasting.
PLAY
Cairngorms National Park The UK’s largest national park is home to the Cairngorms mountain region in the eastern Highlands. These rolling, barren hills of the Cairngorms are breathtaking and home to isolated lochs, walking paths, forests, rivers, tiny villages, whisky distilleries and remote castles.
Castle hunting Scotland has hundreds of crumbling castles dotting its lands, and it can be helpful to better understand the brutal history of its clans by visiting a few. Our favorite was Balvenie, an incredibly well-preserved 16th century castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed overnight. Others in and around the Cairngorms, Inverness and Pitlochry include Ballendoch, Balmoral (The Queen’s home in Scotland), Blair, Corgarff and Urquhart (on the shores of Loch Ness, it dates over 1000 years and its ruins are worth a morning visit before the crowds come later in the day).
Clava Cairns Pre-historic burial temples and rock circles just 10 minutes east of Culloden. Outlander fans will delight in the inspiration for Craig na Dun.
Culloden Battlefield The site where Bonny Prince Charlie’s Jacobite army of Highlanders made its last stand against the British. After Culloden the British took back the Highlands, disbanded the clans and outlawed the speaking of Gaelic, forever changing the Highlander way of life. Check out the visitors’ center exhibit and walk across the lonely grounds and burial sites. Purchase tickets in advance.
Inverness The small Highlands capital is worth a visit or overnight on its own.
Loch Ness Spend a day searching for Nessie, the famed Loch Ness Monster! Spots along the roads encircling the Loch include the beautiful Falls of Foyers (a steep hike to view the falls), Fort Augustus (a charming, loch-side town and stop for lunch), the beautiful Loch Mhor, Urquhart Castle (noted above) and Suidhe Viewpoint (for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside).
Pitlochry While touristy, this village south of the Cairngorms is a great overnight stop to soak in some quintessential Scottish hospitality. We enjoyed a three mile hike that featured stops at the Black Spout falls and Edradour Distillery (see above).
Speyside Cooperage While in Speyside, do not miss a tour of this local whisky barrel-making cooperage, home to an ancient and dying art. Call in advance to schedule tours.
DAY TRIPS
Given the expansiveness of the region, we’ve grouped spots referenced above into suggested day trips.
Cairngorms National Park and Ballater Castle
Inverness, Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns
Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle and surrounding area
Pitlochry, Blair Castle and Edradour Distillery
Speyside Whisky Trail, Speyside Cooperage and Balvenie Castle
STAY
Cairngorms National Park While there are bed and breakfasts aplenty within Ballater or the National Park, we stayed several nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Craigendarroch resort. The Hilton was within driving distance of the Cairngorms and Speyside.
We heard great things from a friend and locals about the small villages of Elgin and Lossiemouth along the northeastern coast, also not far from Speyside.
Inverness We were with family and loved this two bedroom apartment about a 15 minute walk from the high street and main sites. It was also convenient for street parking and easy access out of town to Culloden.
Pitlochry Check out the Westlands (4-star), McKay’s Hotel and Fisher’s Hotel (budget, 3-star), all on the main high street.
LOCATIONS NEARBY
