Southern Corsica

A week in southern Corsica

Remote and rustic, Corsica is not yet as well known by the Anglo world as its southern neighbor Sardinia. The birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, for centuries Corsica was governed by the Italian Genoese, though the French eventually won the land grab. While an island in the Mediterranean, there is no party there. The Corsicans fought and won against development and today their island enjoys peaceful, Caribbean-grade beaches while avoiding the massive crowds of the Côte d'Azur. There are no hotel or restaurant chains here. Come to Corsica for real, off-the-grid rest and relaxation.

While the summer busy season is the second half of July and all of August, the island is still lovely in June and September. We recommend planning a trip longer than just a 3-4 day weekend, as the airports in the south are an hour or two by car from the best beaches.

Flights between the UK and Corsica run a few times a week, mostly on the weekends. Flights run much more frequently during the busy season between mainland France and Corsica. For easy access to the south, the closest airports are in Ajaccio and Figari. Alternatively, fly into Corsica’s capital, Bastia, which also has the island’s largest airport. However, Bastia is in the north and approximately a 2-3 hour drive south.

A rental car is absolutely needed in Corsica. Drivers take heed as the roads are winding and not for the faint-hearted. Public transport exists (though we didn’t see it), but bus routes are likely few and run far between. Many of Corsica’s prettiest beaches are remote and downhill a long, bumpy, unpaved road.

More below to help you build your itinerary for a week in southern Corsica.

EAT

Chez Ange Swanky spot at the beautiful Plage Rodinara. The road down to the restaurant and beach is long but the view was worth it. Go for lunch and try one of their decadent salads.

Chez Dume A nice, shady spot for an informal lunch in the tiny hamlet of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano. Ask to sit on the veranda to admire the mountain view. This orange-roofed village makes for a sweet stop between Sartene and Zonza on the route through the Alta Rocca.

Hotel la Terrasse Quiet, romantic restaurant in Zonza with a beautiful view of the mountains and valley. Food is traditional Coriscan and delicious.

La Cave à Huile d'Olive While lunching in Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano don’t miss a stop to this little olive oil producer.

Rotisserie chicken This road-side delicacy seems to be the unofficial national food of Corisca. Food trucks are everywhere and the value for money really can’t be beat.

Rotisserie Chez de Franky, north of Porto Vecchio, is one such reputable truck. Pick up a rotisserie chicken with jus and sautéed onions, and a side of pommes de terre, for a casual picnic dinner.

U Arniella Cute-yet-casual beach-side restaurant in Porto Pollo. Great seafood and pizzas. Stay for drinks and the DJ after dinner.


DRINK

Domaine de San Michelli While this winery does have a small shop in Sartène, it unfortunately doesn’t offer tastings yet. However, the wine is good (if you like juicy reds!) and can be found at most restaurants and supermarkets on the island.

Pietra Try the local beer! Order a “pression” (draft) of either blonde or amber.

PLAY

Alta Rocca This mountainous region of southern Corsica features tiny, orange-roofed hamlets, stunning vistas of sharp, rocky peaks, excellent hikes and sparkling gorges. Take a break from the beaches and spend one to two days exploring Corsica’s interior.

Bonifacio Old Town This medieval fortress town overlooking the southern-most cliffs of Corsica has stood for hundreds of years, being passed back and forth between the Italians and French. Its location is incredibly dramatic, as the Old Town and citadel are built high above what appears to be a fjord leading from the Mediterranean several miles inland. While touristy, the Old Town is adorable and quintessentially medieval. Worth a few hours of exploration and an overnight in one of the romantic boutique hotels overlooking the cliffs.

Beach hopping Corsica’s beaches are world class and we spent a perfectly relaxing vacation visiting one to two beaches each day. We’ve listed our favorites below by location:

West Coast Cupabia (quiet and family-friendly), Porto Pollo (small but is connected to a sleepy little beach town), Propriano, Campomoro (hands down our favorite and worth the trek to this western tip of the island) and Roccapina (while the drive down is treacherous, the beach is beautiful. But bring supplies as there are no facilities).

North of Porto Vecchio Favone, Pinarello (stunning, quiet and family friendly)

South of Porto Vecchio Palombaggia, Rodinara, Santa Giulia (near to Porto Vecchio, each of these were definitely the busiest beaches we came across and the most glamorous in terms of clientele)

Boating There is nothing like viewing Corsica from the water. We spent a day with Crosiere Exclusive on this day trip, visiting the islands of Lavezzu and Cavallo, and the remote coastline of southeastern Corsica.

Cascades de Polischellu Natural pools within the Alta Rocca mountain canyon that runs along the D268. Park along the side of the road and find a more secluded spot to enjoy a swim and picnic lunch after hiking in the area. This is a good stop on the D268 between Zonza and Solenzara.

Sartène 16th century town that lies at the entrance to the mountainous interior, with sweeping views of the valley below. It’s is worth a drive by and stopover for an hour or two of exploration. Wine from the Sartène AOC is also renowned on the island.

Zonza Outdoors enthusiasts will delight in this tiny, traditional mountain town in the Alta Rocca region. While the streets role up at night, it is a quaint, quiet spot from which to base oneself for mountain hikes, biking and more. Our biggest regret was not spending another night here to enjoy an extra day hiking in the mountains and swimming in the gorges.

STAY

The south of Corsica is large and the drive from the west to east coast through the Alta Rocca, from roughly Propriano to Solenzara, is about two hours. On either side of the island there are many beach towns and remote beaches dotting the coastline. Corsican towns are also quite small, exempting Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so be prepared to relax with long dinners and early-ish bedtimes. We are enclosing a mix of suggestions for a well-rounded road trip.

Bonifacio As previously mentioned, worth staying overnight at one of the hotels overlooking the cliffs and ocean.

Porto Pollo We loved spending two nights in this quiet beach village. The 3-star Auberge Kalliste Hotel Eolabel was a cozy, unassuming option with excellent breakfasts and a two minute walk from the beach.

Porto Vecchio area While there are lots of hotels and Airbnbs close to the city center, for a peaceful retreat closer to the beaches north of Porto Vecchio, check out the 3-star resort Le Kilina. It has a pool, bar, bocce court and restaurant on-site, and its rooms are shaded by tall beach pines.

Zonza As mentioned above, we wished we had stayed another night in this Alta Rocca town. While there are several options to choose from, we enjoyed the boutique Clair de Lune, a short walk from the main street and featuring a small pool.

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Corsica

Scottish Highlands

Scotland’s Highlands are not for the faint-hearted, with their rugged mountains, prehistoric stone circles, crumbling castles and incredible Scotch whisky. Those in search of a truly remote and rustic retreat will appreciate these lands, previously home to fierce warriors and tribal clans. Outlander fans, take note: the magic of the Highlands is real!

Scottish weather is notoriously temperamental, and its winters are bitter cold and the days short, given its high geographical latitude. We recommend visiting during the summer months, where temperatures in the Highlands can still hover at around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) during the day, and drop even lower at night.

To reach the Highlands there are a few options. Inverness is the region’s capital and accessible via plane from most UK cities. Check out the overnight New Caladonian Sleeper Train, leaving from London Euston station at around 9pm and arriving into Inverness the following morning before 9am, for a magical experience. Alternatively, fly or take the Virgin train from London directly into Edinburgh, Scotland’s de facto cultural capital, and travel northward from there. The Highlands are vast and a rental car is an absolute must for getting around. Be warned, however, as Highlands roads are generally winding, single-lane roads.

The Highlands are expansive and it can feel overwhelming to try and cram the remote, westerly Isles into the same trip as the central Cairngorms and eastern coastline. Both Inverness and Edinburgh are at least a few hours from many of the sites. Unless planning a long weekend to a specific area, take your time and plan a road trip over a series of 5 days to two weeks.

EAT

Bean for Coffee Cute cafe in Ballater for breakfast. Delicious scones.

Chalmers Bakery Known as “The Queen’s Bakery”, they have incredible savoury pies and doughnuts. Pick up a few baked goods for lunch before heading off on a hike.

Fern Cottage Mediterranean food in Pitlochry. A quiet, romantic place for dinner.

Walker’s Shortbread Factory If you are in Speyside tasting whisky, don’t miss a visit to the Walker’s factory in Aberlour. Scottish shortbread is buttery and sugary delicious-ness, and makes a great gift for friends and family back home.

DRINK

The Dores Inn Have a pint over a sun downer at this pub on the northern shores of Loch Ness. Highly recommended by the locals.

Scotch Whisky The Highlands’ fresh, clean air and mountain springs contribute to the production of incredible whisky (take note, Scottish whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, unlike its American cousins). The Highlands and Speyside (a Highlands region just east of Inverness with a high concentration of distilleries) make up two of the five prominent Scottish whisky-making regions. In Speyside, we recommend tastings at Balvanie, Glenfidditch, Glenlivet and Macallan. If traveling to Pitlochry, do not miss one of the last traditional distilleries in all of Scotland, Edradour, where you can do a full tour and tasting.

PLAY

Cairngorms National Park The UK’s largest national park is home to the Cairngorms mountain region in the eastern Highlands. These rolling, barren hills of the Cairngorms are breathtaking and home to isolated lochs, walking paths, forests, rivers, tiny villages, whisky distilleries and remote castles.

Castle hunting Scotland has hundreds of crumbling castles dotting its lands, and it can be helpful to better understand the brutal history of its clans by visiting a few. Our favorite was Balvenie, an incredibly well-preserved 16th century castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed overnight. Others in and around the Cairngorms, Inverness and Pitlochry include Ballendoch, Balmoral (The Queen’s home in Scotland), Blair, Corgarff and Urquhart (on the shores of Loch Ness, it dates over 1000 years and its ruins are worth a morning visit before the crowds come later in the day).

Clava Cairns Pre-historic burial temples and rock circles just 10 minutes east of Culloden. Outlander fans will delight in the inspiration for Craig na Dun.

Culloden Battlefield The site where Bonny Prince Charlie’s Jacobite army of Highlanders made its last stand against the British. After Culloden the British took back the Highlands, disbanded the clans and outlawed the speaking of Gaelic, forever changing the Highlander way of life. Check out the visitors’ center exhibit and walk across the lonely grounds and burial sites. Purchase tickets in advance.

Inverness The small Highlands capital is worth a visit or overnight on its own.

Loch Ness Spend a day searching for Nessie, the famed Loch Ness Monster! Spots along the roads encircling the Loch include the beautiful Falls of Foyers (a steep hike to view the falls), Fort Augustus (a charming, loch-side town and stop for lunch), the beautiful Loch Mhor, Urquhart Castle (noted above) and Suidhe Viewpoint (for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside).

Pitlochry While touristy, this village south of the Cairngorms is a great overnight stop to soak in some quintessential Scottish hospitality. We enjoyed a three mile hike that featured stops at the Black Spout falls and Edradour Distillery (see above).

Speyside Cooperage While in Speyside, do not miss a tour of this local whisky barrel-making cooperage, home to an ancient and dying art. Call in advance to schedule tours.

DAY TRIPS

Given the expansiveness of the region, we’ve grouped spots referenced above into suggested day trips.

Cairngorms National Park and Ballater Castle

Inverness, Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns

Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle and surrounding area

Pitlochry, Blair Castle and Edradour Distillery

Speyside Whisky Trail, Speyside Cooperage and Balvenie Castle

STAY

Cairngorms National Park While there are bed and breakfasts aplenty within Ballater or the National Park, we stayed several nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Craigendarroch resort. The Hilton was within driving distance of the Cairngorms and Speyside.

We heard great things from a friend and locals about the small villages of Elgin and Lossiemouth along the northeastern coast, also not far from Speyside.

Inverness We were with family and loved this two bedroom apartment about a 15 minute walk from the high street and main sites. It was also convenient for street parking and easy access out of town to Culloden.

Pitlochry Check out the Westlands (4-star), McKay’s Hotel and Fisher’s Hotel (budget, 3-star), all on the main high street.

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Scottish Highlands

Provence

France’s southern region of Provence is celebrated internationally for its rosé wines, lavender products, sunshine, stunning landscapes with medieval villages, and it’s proximity to the glamorous Côte d'Azur. With so much to see and do, it is easy to spend a week exploring the region.

If traveling to Provence in the summer, you will almost surely cross paths with tourists. The lavender is in bloom in June and July, and is typically harvested in mid-July (this varies by farm). We visited in late June and while some fields were still early, others were in perfect purple splendor. If the lavender fields aren’t at the top of your list, we recommend avoiding the tourists by traveling during the spring or fall shoulder season.

Provence is a large region and our travels have covered only portions. The region is best accessed via the Marseilles or Nice Airports, and for full flexibility on schedule and timing we recommend renting a car. Choose one area to base yourself from or plan a road trip, staying somewhere new each night. We’ve highlighted our favorite towns and routes in the recommendations below.

Attempt to speak French, no matter how rusty it may be! While many in the hospitality industry will have some basic English, this is more difficult to find in smaller towns. It is easy to get by with a mixture of French, English, Google translator, and well-meaning hand gestures, but attempts at their language will go a long way with the locals.

EAT

La Fleur de Thym This gem of a culinary experience was recommended by our bed and breakfast hosts. It’s an unassuming space in the unassuming village of Flayosc, but the fish and meat dishes were fantastic. Try the three course menu.

La Guinguette du Lac This market nearby Plage Galetas and the Lac de Sainte-Croix is a good place to stock up on food stuffs and water before heading to the beach and lake.

Lavender ice cream Nothing quite like it! Find a small stall in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie featuring a non-dyed variety (many glaciers use a purple food die in their lavender ice cream, and while it looks nice it’s not necessary).

DRINK

Restaurant Le Styx at the Hotel Le Provence This restaurant and hotel in La Palud-sur-Verdon is the perfect stop for un café au lait, un biere, or snacks before continuing to or from the Gorges du Verdon. Pleasant outdoor seating in a quiet space.

Rosé wine Provence is one of the world’s top producers and exporters of rosé. There are numerous wineries and vineyards dotting the region, but if you are looking for a special tour or visit we have heard good things about Chateau d'Esclans and Domaine Rabiega. We also recommend Château d'Estoublon. We visited the Chateau while staying in nearby Les Baux-de-Provence. The winery has a selection of reds and rosés, and a delicious olive oil!

PLAY

Lavender Fields The Valensole plateau in Provence has a high concentration of lavender fields, with lavender distilleries (check out Terraoma Jaubert and Lavandes Angelvin) dotting its roadsides. Start just east of Manosque at the intersection of the D4 and D6, and take the D6 east towards Valensole. From Valensole turn left onto the D8 and head northeast. You’ll past a myriad of fields along this route, and we’ve pinned our favorite one just before the intersection of the D8 and D953.

Gorges du Verdon and Parc Naturel regional du Verdon The Gorges du Verdon are considered Europe’s Grand Canyon, and a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Come here for hiking, biking, white water rafting, kayaking, swimming, and more. Also visit the nearby icy, turquoise waters of the Lac de Sainte-Croix, where the gorge begins. The nearby village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is built into the craggy mountainside and located within the Parc.

Pont du Gard This relic remaining from the Roman occupation of France is a first century AD aqueduct. It is considered the highest of all Roman aqueduct bridges and remains one of the best preserved today, so much so that it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a magical experience to walk across the bridge and marvel at the skill of Rome’s early engineers, and admire the view across the countryside.

Provence’s many medieval villages Make time to explore! Some of the ones we’ve passed include Aups, Comps-sur-Artuby, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, La Palud-sur-Verdon and Villecroze. Stop and spend an hour in a traditional Provençal market, often held one day during the week and one day on the weekend.

DAY TRIPs

Arles and Pont du Gard Formerly a provincial capital of ancient Roman, today the sunny city of Arles retains temples and vestiges of its earlier days. Tucked up against the banks of the Rhône River, its charming streets served as inspiration for the painter Van Gogh. We highly recommend an overnight stop here, to or from your way to the Pont du Gard.

Cassis Warranting a weekend visit, this fishing village is known for its beaches, bistros and beautiful calanques. Take a boat tour of the calanques (coves formed from dramatic limestone cliffs that line the Mediterranean coast). We bought tickets the day-of at the ticket stand toward the left of the Port. The 5 Calanques tour was the perfect length! The calanques can also be explored by foot via hiking in the area or by kayak. Eat at Le Grand Bleu, located central in front of the port. While in Cassis be sure to try the local rosé and Provençal mussels.

Gorges du Verdon, Lac de Sainte-Croix and La Palud-sur-Verdon This area could easily be broken down to 2-3 days, for an easier pace. The road leading in and out of La Palud-sur-Verdon, D952, has stunning views of the Gorges far below. For a really wild ride, take the steep and craggily D23 for even more panoramas. Warning, we only recommend this route for experienced and confident drivers! The villages of Aups, Comps-sur-Artuby and Villecroze are adorable and not far from these main sites. Stop for a few hours at one of the beaches along the Lac de Sainte-Croix. We loved Plage Galetas, where we rented a paddle boat for two hours to explore the lake and gorge, and swim.

Les Baux-de-Provence One of the most beautiful villages in France, Les Baux-de-Provence sits between Arles and Saint Remy de Provence. This medieval village rests atop the hill within the Regional Park of the Alpilles, and offers charming store fronts, scenic terraces, and delicious local cuisine. We stayed one night at the bottom of the village at the 4-star Benvengudo.

Valensole Plateau and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie See above under lavendar fields. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is a great stop for a late lunch after a long morning on the D6 and D8 visiting the lavender. Stay overnight night here and then head into the Parc Naturel regional du Verdon the next day to visit the Gorges du Verdon.

STAY

Make the most of a visit to the region by road-tripping and staying in a few places. We would recommend overnight stays in some combination of Arles, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, La Palud-sur-Verdon and Draguignan. Choose a well-reviewed French bed and breakfast for a truly delightful experience with local jams and marmalades, and homemade baguettes and pastries.

We adored our overnight at Bastide des Selves, a quiet country retreat a few miles outside of in Draguignan. Run by a local couple, this small B&B has four spectacularly decorated rooms and serves up a delicious breakfast. We would come back to use Bastide as a base for a longer visit to enjoy the region’s wineries, the nearby Parc Naturel regional du Verdon and beaches of the Côte d'Azur. Both are approximately 40 minutes away by car.

Provence

Athens

The birthplace of democracy, Athens is at once a tantalizing blend of antiquity, modernity and the natural world. Ancient structures and monuments tower over a modern city interspersed with mountains and rocky hills, and striking views of the Saronic Gulf just a few kilometers to the south. Foodies and oenophiles rejoice, the food and wine is phenomenal!

Summers in Athens are hot, searing and touristy. We recommend visiting in spring (Greece in bloom is divine!) or fall to avoid the crowds.

There are a few options for getting to and from Athens International Airport. The easiest and most direct way is via taxi with a flat rate of €38. Alternatively, take Metro line 3 from the airport to Syntagma Square Metro Station. It takes about 40 minutes and will drop you right in the heart of the city.

EAT

Dióskouroi Cafe Tavern This taverna next to the Agora is popular with the locals. The house salad is a MUST try. Great for lunch.

Esperides A taverna in the adorable Anafiotika neighborhood situated right at the top of a dreamy, cobble-stoned staircase. The roof has views of the Acropolis and live music. Go for lunch or stop by in the evening for a tipple and mezes.

Karavan This teeny, tiny sweet shop is tucked (literally!) into the side of a doorway but is known for its incredible baklava.

To Kafeneio One of our most memorable meals in Greece, this tiny taverna was empty of tourists and perfectly delicious. They have their own vineyard and winery in Nemea. Definitely try the housewine and meatballs with sauce!

The Old Tavern of Psarras Local restaurant perfect for lunch near the Acropolis or for a sunset dinner with their lovey terrace overlooking the Ancient sites.

DRINK

Couleur Locale This hip drinking hole is located on a third floor roof deck overlooking the Acropolis. Go for sunset and stay for dinner. It’s a little tricky to find - walk inside the No. 3 building, head to the back, and the go up the stairs.

Dos Gardenias This Cuban-style tapas bar in the trendy Monastiraki neighborhood is a great spot for a drink before dinner or at the end of a long, dusty day.

Oinoscent Awesome wine bar near Syntagma Square with over 50 wines available by glass. Bustling with a PYT crowd on a Friday. If you like reds, try the local agiorgitiko varietal from Nemea.

Taverna Acropoli This taverna is next door to the Roman Forum and overlooks the ruins. Stop here to refuel on Greek coffee and take a break from the sun before heading to the next archaeological site.

PLAY

Anafiotika This charming neighborhood rises above the Plaka against the walls of the Acropolis rock. It’s blue and white buildings and winding walkways are reminiscent of the Greek islands. Awatara is a cute shop featuring world clothing, jewelry and accessories.

Archaeological ruins These should be at the top of your Athens list. Purchase a €30 three day entrance pass from any of the major archaeological sites to gain access into all the sites you’ll want to see. The “do not miss” list includes the Acropolis and its museum, the Ancient Agora, the Roman Forum, the Temple of Zeus, Kerameikos (the ancient, “seedy” part of town) and Hadrian’s Library.

National Parliament Building Worth a stop by to observe the ezone guards in their traditional wear.

Lykavittos Hill Hike or take a cable car to the top of this hill just north of Syntagma for spectacular views.

Monastiraki Flea Market The go-to spot for tourist shopping. Pick up Greek wine, olives, jewelry and decently priced leather jackets.

The Pynx This hill towers above the ancient Agora and was an important gathering place for the Athenian democratic assembly. It is an important place in the birth story of democracy, and a great viewpoint overlooking the city.

Syntagma Square and Syntagma Metro Station Syntagma is the heart of Athens today and its Square is surrounded by the shopping district. Check out the Syntagma Metro, also a celebrated archaeological site! Looking for local gifts to bring home? Check out Greek skincare company Korres Natural Products.

STAY

Nearly all the major archaeological sites in Athens are within walking distance of the Old Town, Plaka. While lovely and a great place to stay, Plaka is also touristy. For something a bit hipper, younger, or just slightly quieter, look for an AirBnb in either Psiri or Monastiraki.

Alternatively, we enjoyed staying at the three star Athenian Callirhoe Hotel just south of Plaka. It was well-priced with large rooms, breakfast included and was a 10 minute walk to Plaka.

Athens

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Split

Split is Croatia’s second largest city and a jewel along the Dalmatian coast. It is celebrated for its cheerful red-tiled roofs, Old Town labyrinth, and the ruins of the 4th century fortress and palace lying within it. Spit is also a gateway to the rest of Dalmatia and the many islands sprinkled off its coast. We recommended spending a few days in Split at the start or end of a longer Croatian adventure.

Split has an international airport just a few miles and short drive from the city. Taxis and ubers are an easy option.

Split is also a three hour drive from Dubrovnik. Renting a car and driving in Croatia is fairly easy, as long as you making a booking in advance. We started in Split, drove 2.5 hours into Bosnia for an overnight in Mostar, and then continued south another 2.5 hours back into Croatia toward Dubrovnik.

While this seaside town would be gorgeous any time of year, it is especially incredible in the warmer months. Avoid the height of the tourist season by visiting during late spring or early fall (May, late August or September).

EAT

Bokeria Don’t miss this restaurant and wine bar serving up Croatian dishes and wines. Make a booking in advance.

Teraca Vidilica Stop at this on your hike back down the hill in Marjan Forest Park. It’s a great place for a snack, beer and view of the city and coastline.

DRINK

Croatian wine is incredible but not yet well known on the international market. According to a wine guide we met, the winemaking industry suffered greatly under the Soviet block, as all grapes produced were used to make one style of house wine. No individuality, creativity or experimenting was allowed or encouraged. However, the industry has more than recovered today and while in Croatia be sure to try the local varietal plavac mali. This small blue grape is the most planted grape used for red wines in Croatia, and it produces the most deliciously smooth rosés and reds.

PLAY

Bell Tower of St. Domnius Cathedral Perhaps the most touristy thing to do in Split, the (somewhat) perilous climb up the steps of the tower is worth it for the view at the top. Go early to beat the crowds.

Diocletian’s Palace This UNESCO World Heritage site is whats left of a Roman emperor’s palace. Today the ruins are the heart of Split’s Old Town, forming a labyrinth of shops, restaurants and bars. Hire a tour guide or use a guide book for a self-guided walk. Major sites within the Palace include the Peristil, the Cathedral of St Dominus, the Vestibule and the palace substructures which today form a marketplace leading down to the Riva. In summer go first thing in the morning, as this area becomes packed with tourists and Game of Thrones fans.

Klis Fortress This ancient fortress sits in the hills above the city. Hire a car or take a local bus to visit. Game of Thrones fans will recognize Klis as Meereen. Recommended by a friend.

Marjan Forest Park This hilly nature reserve rising above the coast is home to medieval chapels and caves, and a lovely walk through pine forests. A hike up offers vistas of the city and ocean below. Bring snacks and water.

Riva Split’s waterfront and harbor area is bustling with boat tours, restaurants and shops.

Sunset Cruise Organize a sunset cruise along the coastline with one of the many kiosks adorning the Riva. Short cruises are approximately 90 minutes to two hours and cost between €20-30. For those with more time, book a half day trip to Hvar or elsewhere.

Zapadna Obala This promenade connects the Riva to Marjan Forest Park and is worth a walk.

STAY

Stay within walking proximity of the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace. We highly recommend Prima Luxury Rooms, a boutique hotel just minutes from the Old Town.

Split

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