Rome
Ciao Roma! All roads lead to this city layered with thousands of years of history, with sites stacked upon each other dating back to ancient times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and now modernity. While Rome is a well beaten path on the tourist trail, it’s large and cosmopolitan enough that the crowds are easily escaped. Come for the romantic, winding streets, gelato and incredible food and wine scene, and unbeatable shopping.
Rome has two airports, Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) which most major airlines use, and Ciampino Airport which is favored by European budget airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair. While Fiumicino is the farther, about 30 miles outside the city, it’s fairly easy to take the Leonardo Express train from the airport direct to Roma Termini station in central Rome. Alternatively, a cab will run a flat rate of around €50, no more. Without traffic the trip takes approximately 30 minutes.
If you are arriving in or departing Rome by train, Termini is the most popular station. Florence is an easy 90 minute direct train and tickets are €30 one-way. Buy online in advance via ItaliaRail.
Go during the off or shoulder seasons to avoid large tourist crowds and unbeatable heat during the summer months. We loved Roma in October!
EAT
Frigidarium This tiny gelateria serves each cup or cone in dipped, melted chocolate. Go late after dinner or past lunch time, as there is always a line!
Gelateria Della Palma This grand gelato shop is two blocks north of the Pantheon and boasts 150 different flavors. Pay at the till before ordering at the bar.
La Tavernaccia While this modern taverna is a bit out of the way and looks like an Italian restaurant straight out of a New Jersey strip mall (and sounds a bit like one - American tourists trek from all over Rome to come here), the food is really, really good, the wine list is excellent and its very affordable. Book in advance.
Pizzeria da Baffeto The best pizza in Rome, with a cracker thin crust. While it looks small on the outside, this two-story pizzeria is always bustling. Well worth the 10 minute wait for a table.
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina This famed deli, eatery and restaurant has a few “shops” all on the same street. We had lunch in the tiny Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria dining room (a square table that seats eight). The wine, bread, cheese and pasta were fantastic. Book in advance.
Supplizio While the humble Roman Suppli is not as well known as its Sicilian arancini ball cousin, it’s just as delicious. This casual eatery is dedicated to the suppli. Pop in for an aperitif and snack before dinner; the cacio e pepe Suppli is a must-try!
DRINK
Alembic Cute, eclectic spot in Trastevere that hosts a €10 “aperitivo buffet” in early evening. The art on the walls is available for purchase.
Caffè Camerino There are a few in the city, but this espresso bar just north of the Jewish Ghetto is perfect for a pit stop.
Il Goccetto A cozy wine bar in the historic center popping with locals in the evenings. Stop by for a glass, bottle or a night cap.
La Boutique del Limoncello A family-owned shop featuring homemade limoncello in a variety of flavors - strawberry, pistachio, banana and more.
Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà A tiny hole-in-the-wall dive bar in Trastevere with a friendly crowd.
Open Baladin This craft beer bar in the Jewish Quarter serves up a long list of burgers and pub grub for those who need a break from pizza and pasta.
PLAY
Ancient Rome Despite being a modern city, Rome’s ancient ruins are incredibly well preserved. Visit the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palatine all on the same pass. Hot tip: the Colosseum line is notoriously long. Purchase your Roman Forum and Colosseum pass at the Forum to beat the crowds later at the Colosseum. On your way to the ancient ruins, walk past the incredibly large Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland).
Castel Sant'Angelo Not as well known as the Ancient Rome ruins or Vatican City, make time for Rome’s very own castle.
Jewish Quarter Trendy part of the city with good shopping, cafes and restaurants.
Pantheon This former temple to the Roman Gods was converted into a church in the 7th century.
Piazza Navona Large, touristy plaza dating back to the first century.
Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini’s Capuchin Crypt For those with a strong stomach, and who want to see something totally unique, for €8 you can visit the Bone Church of Rome. Beneath this church lies a crypt featuring an art installation constructed with the bones of thousands of skeletons.
Spanish Steps
Trastevere Referred to by the locals as the last-standing, truly authentic Roman neighborhood. This trendy locale is excellent for self guided walks, photography and people watching.
Trevi Fountain An epic work of sculpture, the Fountain is always filled with tourists but worth seeing. Go early! Make a wish and toss in a euro or two.
The Vatican and Saint Peter’s Square No visit to Rome is complete without a trip to the world’s smallest country. Book evening tickets to avoid the large crowds.
STAY
We love the Jewish Quarter and the neighborhood just next door, the area that stretches just west of it along the River Tiber up to the Museo di arte sacra San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. We stayed in this two bedroom AirBnb which was the perfect launch pad for walking to all of the sites.
For a more local experience, consider staying in the lovely Trastevere neighborhood. It will be a bit further from the main sites but an excellent place for dinner and going out in the evening.