Florence
The city of Florence - Firenze in Italian - is so well preserved that it is easy to imagine its Renaissance residents walking the very cobble-stoned streets beneath your feet. Come to Florence to enjoy its world class architecture, incredible art scene and famous domed cathedral. Not to mention the amazing restaurants that line the city!
Florence has one airport, served by most major European and low budget airlines, and which is a short train ride outside the city. Take the T1 tram to/from the airport into Florence for €1.50. It drops off in central Florence just near the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella and main train station. Purchase tram tickets on the platform before riding.
While Florence is lovely, it’s also small, the streets are narrow and it’s incredibly touristy, more-so now than our previous visit in 2007. We visited in early October 2019 and were shocked by the crowds, which necessitated booking everything in advance or waiting in long lines. We definitely encourage an off-season trip or at a minimum trying to visit during week-days (versus the weekend).
Florence is a great base city if you want to explore the Tuscany region and wine country. Day trip recommendations are included below.
EAT
Calling all gelato lovers! Every year Florence hosts its annual Gelato Festival. This is an awesome time to visit and sample the world’s best! Check here for dates.
Osteria dell'Enoteca Upscale wine bar with a menu made for meat lovers.
Il Gatto e la Volpe Florentine comfort food in a cozy setting. Don’t miss their house-made blueberry vinegar.
Il Latini Tuscan cuisine a short walk from the Ponte Vecchio, enjoyed by both locals and tourists alike.
La Bussola The best pizza in Florence! Book in advance.
Mercato Centrale Firenze Local food stalls in the city’s main produce and food market. Check out the Baroni Alimentari for local cheeses, cured meats, truffles, etc. The perfect spot to stock up for a takeaway picnic.
Messer Gelato Cute little gelato spot just a few blocks west of the Duomo that is a welcome respite after battling the crowds.
Osteria All'antico Vinaio The best sandwich you will ever try. Don’t be cowed by the lines, they move quickly and the wait is worth it.
The Oil Shoppe Delicious sandwiches to-go with fresh ingredients.
DRINK
Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina Cute wine bar across from Palazzo Pitti with a great atmosphere, food, and wine.
Signorvino This wine bar sits directly across the river from the Museo Galileo and has lovely views of the Ponte Vecchio. Enjoy a bottle on the veranda at sunset.
PLAY
Basilica of Santa Croce A short walk east from the Palazzo Vecchio, this famous church sits in a pretty square and hosts the tombs of Michelangelo and Galileo. Go early to beat the line to get inside.
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella Florence’s train station is named after this charming church in a quiet square.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (“The Duomo”) Firenze’s most famous landmark is the world’s third largest church. Brunelleschi’s orange dome towers above the city and is the unmistakeable centrepiece of the city’s skyline.
Il Bisonte Boutique luxury leather chain on Via del Parione.
Museo Galileo This museum and working research institute is dedicated to Florentine’s most famous scientific resident and astronomer - Galileo Galilei - and features one of the world’s largest collections of scientific instruments. It’s also almost never crowded!
Oltrarno Florence’s south bank is much less crowded than the north and a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Visit Boboli Gardens for excellent views of the city, river and skyline, the lovely and quiet Piazza Santo Spirito and the grandiose Palazzo Pitti.
Palazzo Vecchio Florence’s town hall, towering above the Piazza della Signoria, dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries and was previously a Medici duke’s palace.
Piazza della Signoria The city’s most famous square is also the seat of its political life.
Ponte Vecchio This medieval, fourteenth century bridge is one of the most photographed spots in Florence. The tiny shops that line both sides, originally butcher shops, belong to luxury jewellers today.
Uffizi One of the most famous art museums in the world, the Uffizi features masterpieces by Giotto, Botticelli, Leonardo, Raffaello, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and more. Booking tickets in advance is essential.
Day Trips
Siena This stunning, medieval city is 75 minutes from Florence by car. It is possible to train but less convenient as the train station is 1.5 miles outside the city center, which requires a walk or local bus ride to enter the town square. The city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is incredibly charming. Known for its cuisine, art, medieval landscapes and the Palio horse race, Siena is a great place for a day trip. Also consider basing yourself here to explore wider Tuscany.
Wine Country The closest place to enjoy wine tastings in the Tuscan countryside is Chianti, just a 30 minute drive south of Florence. The easiest way is to go by car (our choice) or book a day trip. We also loved exploring Montepulciano and Montalcino, which are perfect for wine lovers. Montalcino is home to Italy’s most famous wine, Brunello di Montalcino, while Montepulciano produces Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, another very highly rated wine. This area is worth the trip to enjoy the scenery, sample wines and try local meats and cheeses.
STAY
Oltrarno This neighborhood on Florence’s south bank is less crowded than the historic center and has a much more authentic feel. We enjoyed Palazzo Belfiore, historic 14th century apartments. The owner offers seven apartments of varying sizes. Stay here for a local, Florentine atmosphere with reasonable prices.
If you aren’t afraid of the crowds and want to stay in Florence’s historic center, we enjoyed this studio apartment on AirBnb next to the Museo Galileo. The owners rent out three other small apartments in central Florence and a farmhouse 30 minutes outside the city in Tuscany.